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Doesn't sound like me you have a problem, then. Do the isolator to keep your starting battery protected, and if you find the alternator isn't keeping up, you can look into upgrading just that part of it. Since it's the front battery alternator, you don't need to worry about an isolated ground...

Well, the civvy version works just fine with 12v, so it's not like you'd be losing reliability. AFAIK, the only reason the military did the 24v setup was for compatibility with other MVs for jump-starting. So, if you convert, you can run one battery for the truck, and one for the camper...

I would do the same with that setup. No problem for you or me. But I wouldn't recommend it to someone who doesn't understand electricity.

Nope. They are not two separate systems. The 24v system piggybacks on the 12v system. It's really two 12v systems, but they are not separate. One of them is parked "on top" of the other to make 24v. Let's see if I can make this diagram in ACII art: + 24v ------------ ------ ------------...

Ah, now I see what Ken is saying. Using an isolator, you will load the alternator more, but you won't be putting any drain on the front battery, thus you won't be making the imbalance any worse. As long as you are driving long enough to fully charge both batteries (front battery and aux), then...

Trailhead, I see 3 good options for you: Convert to completely 12 volts, and use the second alternator to charge your aux batteries. This could include the stock second battery AND some camper batteries. OR you could run the stock second battery in parallel with your starting battery, and...

Yes, and unless you have a wooden or fiberglass or other completely non-conductive camper, this is a recipe for disaster. Sooner or later some insulator is going to wear through, or somebody is not going to understand how the system works, and you'll have melted wires or a fire. With a...