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How did this get in this thread?

The only two issues I see are that lead F is the one hot all the time so the upper jumper does not seem to work, and also have you followed every one of the possible "backfeed" paths that you have created with the switch in every different position, that is the reason I isolated the switch from...

The problem with that is if you are (finished) driving at night and turn off the headlights it is just natural to switch it all the way off, also young fingers just love to twist levers, this mod guarantees you will always have brake lights, IMHO the risk is just too high to leave to chance. But...

For the turn signals and horn cut the wire off of terminal J (467A) and connect it through a fused lead to a switched source, as RWH mentioned in another thread the heater feed wire behind the inst. panel would be a good one (27D) it is coming off of one of the run power circuit breakers behind...

This is the mod for the brake lights, you can tap off 24V anywhere that is convenient and should use an in line fuse. (15A) The most convenient place to pick up 24V is splicing into wire 15A at terminal F on the light switch, do not cut this wire away from the switch as it will still be powering...

These are the mods for bypassing the light switch so you will have full time brake lights and automatically switched horn and turn signals, I am combining the turn signals and horn to be switched because it is easier than the way I did it on my HMMWV. This does involve cutting some wires, LEAVE...