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DUH...

I have already answered that question, so go ahead and run it on 24V

Interesting, I have no experience with these but wonder if they are "heavy duty" enough for the HMMWV, these windows weigh several times the weight of a hotrod flat window. But again I have zero experience or have even seen these used in this application, but if the wiring is right then...

Sounds like you have defective devices or something is not wired correctly, where did you get the doors? are they new?

To further explain, every electrical device on a HMMWV, headlights, tail lights, WW motor, heater, horn etc has a return (ground) wire going back to a couple of centralized grounding points, the body is not used at ALL for grounding of anything on the HMMWV as it came from the factory and also...

What I was trying to say is the return path is as important as the feed path. :)

Are you SURE you are getting full voltage to the motors, where are the doors grounded? the body should never be used as a ground, you must ground to the motor/trans and best would of course be the shunt in the battery box.

That would not be a good idea at all, not only are you over amping the motors and switches, you would be delivering much more torque to the regulator which could easily break something. The mods you need to do are very easy and basic, if you cannot figure it out pay someone to do it for you.

I am sure they are talking about the negative terminal, it goes to the negative shunt mounted on the inside of the battery box, they WARN that if the negative lead fails, has a poor connection or has inadequate wire size you will over-volt the 12V side so the ground is THE most important...

70A is the 12V output current, not sure how efficient the device is. if it were 100% then the max input would be 35A but of course it cannot be 100% efficient

70A would probably be OK with 10ga wire that short, I would put a 50A there, not likely going to pull that much anyway. (it is correct to size the fuse to the feed wire and assumed amps used), the device is SUPPOSED to protect itself You can run a wire to the run switch but you will still need...

Yes you want to fuse the wire that is turning on and off the power to the Orion, you can tap the wire 29T for switched power to the green connector at the transmission control relay, but you definitely want to fuse it, if it shorts out in or outside of the Orion you don't want it affecting the...

Those terminals have numbers or letters, they could have done a much better job than "right-hand terminal" I am assuming it is the terminal towards the inside but again they could have referenced the actual terminal designation. We used tons of those style terminals in the SCADA equipment I used...

If you put it in the battery box as shown you could pull switched 24V from the relay for the TCM.

Wired as is it's going to run the batteries down. See the instructions for optional remote on off switch. EDIT, actually it does say you can feed switched 24V to the right side of the remote switch plug so a relay will not be needed, sorry missed that...

That was to feed the radios, just follow it back to the source and remove it. after disconnecting the batteries of course.

Your probably OK there to use the 14V tap, not likely going to use all of them at the same time and even then it is just an intermittent load. In fact if that is all you are going to connect I would not even put a relay on it, just a good fuse at the place you tap the 14V, would it really matter...

I also want to caution you about 24V circuits, if you ever shorted out something on a 12V system it may not have been a big deal, on 24V using the wrong size wire, fuse and or workmanship/design can be catastrophic, even just a dirty battery connection can boil the terminal off of a battery in...

Well then you need to find out on how much power that device needs, ask the manufacturer, if it requires anything close to 60A you need to rethink the entire project as you cannot draw that much from the 14V tap, some say 30A max, I would not go over 25A. (30A fused) If you need 30A or more...

You got it! the relay the 24V side only needs a 3A fuse to power the coil, the 30A part is the contact (12V) side, but only use enough fuse plus at least 20% that is required by the accessories, if you need 10A total (peak) then a 15 or 20A will be more than enough. You of course have to spec...