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300-375psi is what the cummins book says, if you think it’s incorrect blame them, I’m just citing the book lol
edit; but I think that is to allow even the slightest opening in the valves to show up
I’m actually going to bump mine up 2* and see what it does. Im still contemplating using my water pump from Snow performance to build the 300 psi needed for the spill port timing.
Been a couple years since the meat of this thread was written. Anyone have updates on timing changes and corresponding EGT/MPG values? I still haven’t done this myself yet, but with the new replacement IP I’m getting about 7.1mpg and around 1050egt flat and level at 55mph. Still gutless on a...
I was rereading the thread from the beginning, does anyone have pics of their timing pins so that I can go back to a referenced point? I'm at least going to undo what I did earlier
Well that was a fail, gonna have to reset it back to what to was and figure out how to set proper timing marks on the crank and then figure out where timing is at right now.
Another easy way (and free) is to measure the circumference of the damper, which is 30.5625 for mine, divide by 360 for the measurement per degree and then multiply by the number of degrees you want to change the timing. I'm just going to do 8* for a total of 16*. That equates to rotating mine...
OK, I wasn't sure if the IP shaft was splined, keyed, or tapered. At least tapered we can adjust timing without removing the whole cover. Now I just have to find the tools since all I have is the standard gear puller, I'll look at HFs steering wheel puller next time I'm in town.
This is probably a stupid question for most, but I've never done this kind of work since I was a gas gear head.
Does an IP adjustment require the pump to be off the motor? All I've seen for pictures seems to be the front engine/IP, though it could be the back I guess.
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