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. Guessing the guy at Spring Menders was talking about the Monster Truck pilot - Dennis Anderson. .

. That's great news!! Especially a local shop - with CUCV experience to boot! .

. That could be true... Hadn't given that enough thought. Still, it might be worth asking - or maybe a local starter repair shop.

. You show being in Virginia... What about taking the starter to a local Advance Auto or maybe AutoZone for testing? I wouldn't expect anything more than "good" or "bad" in that testing, but at least it would be worth a try - without throwing money at it.

. I wish I had some magic answers. Sounds to me like the fields in the starter are weak - but without the tools to test with - it's just guesswork. The lack of a heavy electrical draw kinda says that is the problem - but is no more than a guess.

. Maybe unbolt the starter then with a pair of jumper cables - hook the positive to the big bolt and then touch the tail of the starter. It should spin like mad. BE SURE TO STAND ON IT so it doesn't jump away from you! The bendix and be made to engage too, but this is a cheap quick test...

. Wow! Reading that article makes me need to try it! .

. Folks who do that work are getting harder and harder to find. Radiator soldering requires skill rather than pressing a button on a controller. In our town of over a million, there is one place in town that would tackle that job. Owner of that place is 71 and when he is gone, I don't know...

. That stuff is really good and surprisingly durable. I sprayed the battery cover on my M1089. It is fiberglass and there were "hairy fibers" all over it. Every time I touched it, I got glass in my hands. Sprayed with that and the problem is gone! It dries like a bullet! .

. That is DEFINITELY a nice looking truck. Funny how it works... We have a (Insert Truck Name Here) and we almost drove the wheels off it. Then, for whatever reason - or maybe even "life happens" and it goes away. Always looking in the reard view mirror wishing you hadn't sold it... A lot like...

. I thought maybe I was a weirdo... I have always used a small metal can to capture the brake fluid when bleeding brakes. Then I would pour it through a paint strainer back into a can marked USED. I am somewhat meticulous on being clean when bleeding brakes - so I know I am not pouring dirt...

. That makes my wallet cry... On the other hand, it isn't like that has to be done that often.

. Agreed. Wasn't suggesting anything about caster or camber or alignment. Just moving the wheel left or right to center it up. Making the left side longer - or the right side longer (sorry, I don't know which way to go) will absolutely turn that steering wheel. Obviously it will get better...

. Not the all knowing here for sure, but WHAT IF: For example, the steering wheel points at 2 o'clock when the truck is driving a straight line. The front end alignment is correct. Truck stays straight with no uneven wear on the tires. Steering wheel only fits one way? OR maybe just remove it...

. Agreed! On my 83 (plain Chevy truck) pumped full of gas, I could drive for a week before the needle moved off of full. Not a long ride to work, so that seemed reasonable to me. @DIVE DIVE, I think the measurements that you have done are pretty useful. Now you know that at a Quarter Tank -...

. Well, with that accomplishment - nobody can say that you were out in left field with the sun in your eyes. Now at least you won't have the sun in your eyes anyhow :cool:

. White Owl is "good people". Not quite as old as dirt, but they have been in the business for a long time. Lots of knowledge and willing to share. Especially on older green hardware...

. Good steady progress! Lookin Good...

. That is neat! I had no idea there was any such thing. Paint with built in "slickem" is pretty awesome.

. Hard work, somewhat of a brain drain thing - but Wow - it is looking good! The time spent will have been worth every minute when you are in the drivers seat.