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I completed my conversion/setup. Everything is working great with the new valve.

I don't know about A1 trucks... Other FMTV variants may have different/multiple Air source lines. I just went off of what my specific LMTV has. I put a T fitting under the dash just off the truck supply fitting. I didn't want to get too cluttered behind the new valve since the Gen2 AC units...

SUCCESS! New valve works like a champ. The problem I was having with the valve venting to exhaust was caused by not having an air supply to the RES2 port on the new valve. You have to have two air supply connections for the valve to work. I have updated the first post with a summary and pics...

Converting Air Park/Trailer Valves to Single Haldex Unit OK, sorry for the delay :) I have been working on multiple modifications at the same time so have been SWAMPED... I am waiting for my third round of quick disconnect 90 degree fittings to arrive in the mail set for Saturday. I ordered...

I didn't check that just listened for the air release sound... didn't put it in drive... I know the upper park/emergency lights are always on with the bottom two park/emer go out when I push in the lower valve. Called Haldex tech line... less than worthless. Had no idea whether or not res 1 and...

The lines are still reversed between trailer and tractor so I should be able to test park brakes apply and release tomorrow. I get what your saying to add a T push fitting on supply line so it can feed res1 and res2.

I will check that tomorrow. Doing a coolant flush right now switching to CAT ELC coolant so can't fire up the truck since radiator is draining now... Both valves are getting air with just res1. Both will push in and hold which would not occur if the valve is not getting air. Might try calling...

The stock lines are stupid short and very difficult to mate up to the push fittings so I figured out the trick to give yourself enough slack for the valve hookup. Disconnect the lines under the dash one at a time (and label) to give the slack you need being careful not to pull the line too far...

Ok I am stumped here... Installed the valve with res2 and aux ports plugged. Supply, exhaust, trailer, and tractor lines connected. When I fire up the truck with the park prake valve out, applied, it vents air out the exhaust port in front of the radiator. Push the park in, off, air stops...

Dang IT!!! Just found the push-on connectors on Amazon for half the price of Grainger when you include tax and shipping I paid... DOT approved and everything...

you rock! and thank you... its going to be funny when I get this done if the end write up is buy these 4 fittings and 2 plugs; mark the truck lines pull the stock valves; cut the compression fittings off the truck lines and plug them into the new fittings and valve then enjoy.... Hilarious! at...

Yep, thanks guys. I updated that last post and just ordered the push on fitting from Grainger, DOT approved. Should have thought to check NAPA but I agree on all points. Don't use rigged-up hardware dealing with brakes and air lines. Thanks! OD

Jason, ok I am running around trying to locate fittings and you have me worried on the DOT approved front. Reread your post and absolutely not going to use barbed fitting for the lines. I have found a 3/8" compression to 1/4" NPT fitting at Home Depot but the truck fitting will not screw on to...

Need to post another couple of pics later in the original post. Got the new valve and verified it has 1/4" NPT female fittings. However the air lines from the truck are 3/8" OD compression so a strait male to male 1/4" NPT won't work.

ok I get it. The "DOT Fittings" are related to the push on style, as I said in my previous post, similar to the PEX stuff in plumbing. Assuming the DOT is required for safety when dealing with the nylon air hoses and the little compression fittings. But anything else seems to be strait brass NPT...

I can't find a "DOT connectors" anywhere online. When I search on "truck air line fittings" I get a lot of hits and all the connectors and adapters are brass NPT fittings. The stock lines off the truck are plastic/nylon and have the little compression ring and female cap still on them to connect...

Thanks jjb I will add that to my primary post. That would make sense based on how the two valves are connected.

I need to measure. Cannot use the 2 valves due to space restrictions inside the unit.

Updated original post with diagram and pics of the stock valves and air line routing. I think I have this handled. Waiting for new valve to show up. I paid $16 for the new valve type.

I don't have a choice. Based on the setup I am going with (secret project right now) there is not enough room to mount the two separate valves. But simplification of assembly/setup with a lot less valves seems like a win. I also agree if it aint broke don't fix it but I have to move to the newer...