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Correct, group 24 fits pretty good. The originals were 6TL which were essentially a cube rather than a rectangle. You can still get them from several places but it will be a special order and they can be pricey. Although my commercial price at O-Riley's was about $200 last time I checked, so not...

Bet you can almost smell VICTORY.... and it smells like Diesel!

Looking great! Can't wait to hear you say "IT'S RUNNING!" Good luck!

Keep turning the motor. "B" is for setting the valves. You want "PC" on the flywheel. Get it on the PC mark and then verify the position of the #1 intake cam lobe in the picture I posted. Most pumps will spin pretty easily with just 2 fingers to turn it. If it requires your whole hand to...

Agreed, you are in good shape to get this done. So follow the procedure in the TM. Seeing that you will have the valve covers off, rotate motor clockwise until the #1 intake valve closes ( 2nd valve from the right ) continue rotating clockwise about another 90* or so until the "PC" mark is...

Just spin the gear, make sure it turns freely now. then push in on the cap where it rides against the cam, it should move in and out freely ( the spring force is tight but you an press it with your thumb ) You could also take out the delivery valve so you can see the plunger movement in and out...

One thing you can try as a crude test is to put the piston near the bottom of the bore, finish your movement with a slight up stroke movement, so go slightly past the bottom until the piston starts to rise again then stop. Put fluid on top of the piston, something like diesel, HHO or kerosene...

So how bad is the cylinder wall on the worst bore? It looks pretty bad in the pictures, but I know pictures of cylinders can be deceiving. Do you have large pitted spots that you can catch with your fingernail, or is it mostly just discolored but fairly smooth? The other thing to check for is...

I would leave it on. That way the acetone will stay in the pump body and do it's magic. As a point of reference, does the gear on the face of the pump spin freely or is it stuck, and is the throttle lever free or binding / stuck?

These days due to the rising cost of an IP Its best to just remove the pump. It will tolerate about ZERO amount of rotation if its frozen. OR, IF you have an Ambac M50 pump you could remove the fuel line from the filter assy. raise it up above the level of the IP and fill it with acetone...

Ok, "PC" is the timing mark you use to align the engine with to install and time the IP. PC stands for Port Closing and is marked on the flywheel and can be seen through the round hole where the timing pointer is, but don't worry about that just yet. Remove the IP and clamp the mounting flange...

Might be worthwhile to just remove the IP to be sure, while working on the pistons. I know you can't put it at "PC" mark beforehand, but it's easy to retime it later, if the IP has to be removed without setting it at PC first.

Wow, looks like you have a LOT of water in it! Just pull the heads off, nothing much as far as tips, its straight forward. Pull valve covers, remove rocker arms and pushrods, remove head bolts including the rocker arm studs. Don't forget the glow plug wires and oil lines under the intake. Also...

Yup, probably should get the injectors out so you can get the mystery oil into the cylinders and start soaking. It is possible to get it in through the exhaust valves too as a last resort. Worst case you end up pulling the heads, but that honestly is very simple and head gaskets are available...