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Was that with a jumper installed from K11 pin 30 to pin 87? Install a jumper there, turn on the ign switch and push the start button. with the ign sw on and trans in neutral K26 should energize. With the oil pressure switch seeing less than 15PSI of oil pressure(engine not running) you...

As Tomtime mentioned, thats why i asked if you have an oil idiot light. K11 must energize to power the start circuit. But if you jumpered K11 pin 30 to 87 that should have powered the start circuit the same as K11 would… that is of course provided you have a valid circuit. Back to rule one...

I thought this was a starting problem?

There are 2 parts to the K11 circuit. DC voltage applied by K26 and a path to ground provided by the oil pressure switch. Do you have an oil pressure idiot light when you turn on the ignition switch? The same path to ground that allows K11 to energize is also provided to the oil light by the...

Yep, no K11, no start…

Yellow is low voltage. Green is normal and red is high voltage… time to break out the voltmeter…

What NDT said. The TCU powers K26 when in neutral. K26 powers K11 which provides the power to the starter switches… 15 PSI of oil pressure de-energizes K11 disabling the starter and putting the alternator online… so does taking the trans out of neutral…

Did you ever bypass AND measure voltages? If the disconnect is bypassed, whether it clicks or not makes no difference. I would bypass the disconnect module, and both the ignition relays at the same time. Things may start clicking but that is just a symptom of voltage loss. Start at the...

Any luck? What I think you are experiencing is the same thing that hapoens when you kink a garden hose. You will have full pressure(voltage) all the way to the nozzle at the end of the hose, untill you open the nozzle. Then the pressure at the nozzle drops off drastically as you try and flow...

The bands on the two small wires on the 24v relay(K1) should be labeled TL 505 & 506. The bands on the small 12V ign relay(K2) wires ahould be TL 168 and maybe TL 169(not labeled on the schematic I have). TL 505 and 168 should be 24V from CB45 via the battery sw and ign switch. TL,506 and 169...

With the batt disconnect relay and the 12 and 24 batt to ign points jumpered up in the power panel, what voltage are you measuring for 12 and 24 at the power panel? Regardless of whats clicking, With those 3 relays bypassed with jumpers, you should have steady power between batteries and the...

Ok was going to say bypass the disconnect relay if it was clicking, but since you have done it already and the ignition relays are still clicking, then the issue must be the supply power feeding the ignition relays. Ig you jumper from the BATT to the IGN terminals in the power panel, that will...

Those are the ignition relays, K1 and K2. They connect 12v batt to 12v ign, and 24v batt to 24v ign when you turn on the ignition switch. Those relays shouldn’t have any connection to the battery disconnect relays. battery 24 goes thru CB45 thru half of the battery disconnect sw under the...

What exactly is clicking? Which relays? Did the power at the 12 and 24 batt bolts in the power panel drop during the clicking? i am trying to get an idea where to tell you to bypass, so you can stop the clicking and do a proper load test to find where your voltage is dropping off Under load.

So this starts its cycling when you push the start button?

Just got a chance to look at your pics. Thats a weird way to measure voltages. The black lead should be connected to chassis ground. Then one of those pathways should read 12v and the other 24v. The voltage should disappear beyond any open disconnect sw or relay. Measuring at the various...

Yep, i suspect NDT is correct. a bad connection between that disconnect relay and the power panel in the dash. When you pull current thru a bad connection, like a kink in a garden hose, the resistance causes a voltage drop. This only happens under load, so voltage isn’t considered good until...