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Then that is probably S40, a 35F thermal snap switch. Above 35f coolant temp it disables ether control…

if that part in the pic is identified as a thermal resistor, it is probably not for the ether system. On the 3116 the ether system uses a thermal switch(35F) in the coolant bypass pipe in front of the engine. On the early A1 like many early EFI systems, it has 2 temp sensors(thermistors)...

Should be no problem running without it. Are you sure that dash light is “CTIS OFF“? There is a CTIS overspeed light in the dash and CTIS will light this light when you go too fast for a particular tire pressure, then it will initiate an automatic inflate to get to the appropriate pressure for...

Thats how i would have found it... the cat sensors are not listed in the mil documentation and the cat coolant sensor does not appear to have a pigrail... If it is for the ether, then it is probably a 35F switch(mine was)...

I would suspect it is the sensor for the ECU. I just went to look for wire/connector info and discovered the A1 and A1R diagrams don’t show the engine temp sensor connection to the ECU… got wire numbers off that sensor and the one to the rear of the housing?

It is either a gauge temp sensor or a temp switch or an ECU coolant temp sensor. On the A0, they put a gauge sender on the rear side of the housing(upper port), off of a T that circulates coolant to the expansion tank. The heater feed is the lower port, both can be seen upper left in your...

That wire to the AC terminal on the reg feeds RPM info to a LBCD, which the A0.5s dont have(no LBCD, remote or manual battery disconects)... so no youvare not missing anything if you dont have a LBCD...

So maybe something stalled the pump… You are not the only owner of this truck. The offending component may have left with a previous oil change…

Or something fell thru the gears and the pump housing was the weakest outlet for the gear displacement…

Applying air at the front red/emer gladhand should fill the tanks, and it should also release the park brake, just like when you tow the vehicle. It should not effect the park valve operation, if it is getting supply air it should stay in when pushed.

Park air comes from a 2way checkvalve between primary and secindary air feeding tge pedal. It is located to the left of thebrake pedal. If the service brakes apply air, then air is reaching the 2way. You can loosen tge middle 2way fitting if air comes out then it ismaking it thru the 2way...

Not sure how much prwssure is required to hold in the knob, but basically yes. The park springs need about 60 PSI to fully compress and release the brakes.

Will have to look into the 5th wheel plumbing as I am not specifically familliar with it. It should be basically paralleled off the normal rear gladhand fittings as it serves the same purpose to feed trailer with red and blue(park/emer and service air) brake air. Maybe you didnt cap something...

Park brake button popping right back out indicates no air is reaching the park control valve. Or the valve itself has an issue. It requires air to hold the control in the in/on/air applied/park brakes released position. If all the air bleeds away, the control will pop out under spring...

Just remove the wheel on the one you cant cage:) or apply air to the front red gladhand, which is how a towing vehicle would release them…

There should be one stored in a holder on each can…

oh yeah thats a bad/fouled pressure regulator. You should get 10PSI cranking, 25 PSI at idle and it should shift up to a stable 60PSI as you ramp up the RPM. At any given RPM the pressure should be very stable(once you cancell out the pulsations from the pump with a snubber/restricter. Below...

When you have the ECU scanned to identify that CEL fault, see if they can also copy the engine personality files. The ECUs they used in these 3126s have been known to have their internal keep alive battery fail. When this happens the ECU is bricked and must be replaced. You will want a copy...

Breaking the 12 and 24 circuits would be my prefered method... same as they do the manual and remote disconnects on tge A1s

Sort of. If you only disconnect ground you will still have a difference of potential between any 12 and 24 circuits. The polarity protection device prevents any reverse flow from 24 thru any 12v circuits, but if you are working on anything there is still potential present in the circuitry.