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The huge key to success is threading that line on first before bolting the pump to the block. Once it is rigid, you are almost guaranteed to never the get the threaded line started.

Because it works just fine BTW, electric pumps that are frame rail mounted are not desirable because they run hot and tend too fail early in life. Pretty much every OEM design utilizes a tank mounted pump. The fuel keeps it cool. Does your electric pump have an inertia switch to shut it off in...

That is why I have a primer on my Stanadyne FM100 filter. Almost all Euro diesels have primers from the factory (older stuff). This eliminates having to kill your batts. I never said you shouldn't switch but is an unnecessary upgrade and usually a band aid like my original statement. Not sure...

I passed 47 Cuck Vees this morning all broken down because of flooded crankcases...<br><br>The mechanical lift pump works fine with good hoses and as long as it been replaced in the last 30 years. Do you know how many OTR, tractors, and vessels have mechanical pumps over electric? They work...

It serves no extra function other than assisting while bleeding a new filter or freeing up the mount for an oil return fitting on a turbo upgrade. Other than that, how would an engine benefit from an electric pump. It serves the same purpose and it functions fine with the stock mechanical do how...

I would be questioning why it has an electric pump...my gut says it isn't for speedy fuel filter bleeding but rather to bandaid a possible fuel issue.