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While it sounds like you are getting along with it ok as is. Think about planning to pull the transmission when time and money permit just for the peace of mind. Better to catch a bad clutch now than to wait until it takes out the pressure plate and flywheel.

I agree with the "If it ain't broke" part, but for a $20 seal and the fact that you already have it apart????? As to turning the pressure plate and flywheel, I have no idea what that would cost. The part numbers I posted were the rear main seal parts numbers so you can buy them from any...

The parts aren't that expensive....at least I hope not. I think my clutch disk was less than $130. If the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces are smooth and true, just replace the disk. And Check the throwout bearing good while you have it apart If you have to go that far. Good luck.

You're overthinking it. With the clutch pedal lightly depressed only until resistance is felt (you should be able to pull the linkage from under the truck by hand to that point). Measure from the face of the bellhousing bolt flange (Item 17) to the center of the hole in the linkage (Item 15)...

Here it is...Pulled the transmission today!!!

It's possible that your clutch plate is just bad. I'm gonna find the link to my clutch replacement thread in a minute, I't's not a "Step by Step" but it's not bad. When I did mine the clutch was just about shot. There isn't much material on them to begin with. I don't know if it's true or...

The inspection plate is a rectangular plate right behind the fording plug. Take it off and have someone work the clutch in and out while you spray a couple of cans of brake cleaner up in and all over the clutch surfaces you can get it on

The only real adjustment is for the clutch pedal free travel. As long as you have the free travel the clutch is adjusted. It's possible that you may have some broken fingers on the pressure plate. Or could have some fluid saturation on the clutch disk from a leaking transmission or rear main...