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No problem. I think I'll be at the mabry thing, if that's what you mean. And the fix worked. 4WD light works now!

I soaked the switch in gasoline. Pressed the ball to open a space between it and the housing, then stuck a piece of copper safety wire in there to keep it open so gasoline could infiltrate. Let it soak a few hours, then worked the ball in and out by hand a bunch. Now it reads about 40 ohms...

I'll see if I can find some rubber plugs. Not a bad idea. I'm testing my switch now. When I depress the spring-loaded ball, it reads between 30k and 50k ohms. Seems awfully high. Corroded contacts?

I went ahead and drilled a 1/2" hole in the floor. And then I drilled a second one... in the right spot. Then I put a deep well socket on the switch, put extension through the hole and into the socket, and used a breaker with a cheater on the handle to break it loose. It was on there really...

Plain old black automotive RTV? I did that for my rear differential cover but I wasn't sure it was an accepted practice for the transfer case adapter connection.

Thanks I saw that. That's a wee bit bigger of a hole than I was thinking of!

I was able to get the pin. I was actually going after the wrong pin, previously. One is meant to be removed and the other isn't. The one that is meant to be removed is one of those bent vaguely "R-shaped" pins. Still can't get the switch off. The points were a bit damaged before I got to it...

I'm considering cutting a hole in the cab floor to be able to access the 4wd indicator light switch and the cotter pin holding the lever to the transfer case. Then bolting my fire extinguisher bracket over the hole to cover it up. Is this a crazy idea? Guess I'm just out of patience and...