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Thank you, Greg. I'll make a point to check that very soon.

From a mouse nest to a rat's nest. :-D

I'll be interested in hearing how that test goes. My guess is that the regulator will try to make the generator put out 240v 3 phase power. Adjusting the output down to 208 may be possible if that happens.

I'm glad you found a way to get it working, Dave. It's also good to get confirmation that you don't have to flash the field when using the SX460 regulator.

It's really not newer technology as much as different technology. Most or all civilian generators of the period had straightforward systems like you get with the SX460. As far as I've been able to gather, the 002A and 003A were designed so that if the electronics failed, you'd still be likely...

As I understand the Flight Systems regulator, there's enough residual magnetism in the generator to get things going without having to flash the field, so you don't bother with that feature.

Someone on this board might have an extra one to sell. I picked up a spare this way when I noticed cracks in the plastic of the one I'm using now.

I find it works much better if you're kneeling in gravel, with poor light, and with mosquitoes biting and ticks crawling up your legs.

A lot of times the problem is right near the terminal, if it's caused by something like mouse pee corroding things. If those terminals are in the clear, you might be able to excavate with the transformer in place. I can envision the connection between the end of the copper winding and the...

I can't tell you specifically why a failed H5-H6 winding causes your symptoms, but you can be sure that is a major problem. Any chance you can dig out the black plastic, find the wires that go to those terminals, and fix the break? If so, you can put some electrical grade RTV on after the...

In any case Dave, sorry I lead you down the wrong path. When you disconnected the regulator and power came back, it *almost* had to be the regulator's fault. If you don't need the new one, I'll be glad to take it back.

As I remember, the terminal designations are molded into the black plastic, but it's been a while.

Disconnect the wires from either C1 or C2 on CVT1 and measure the resistance between C1 and C2. It's supposed to be 9.6Ω ±0.96Ω. That's the control winding. The other resistances in CVT1 are in TM5-6115-585-34.pdf, page 6-15, which is page 93 in my PDF viewer.

As far as I've seen, all the variations of the board are essentially the same circuit. They just changed a few small things like using one resistor instead of two in parallel in a couple places, and things like that. The ones I make are based on the 72-5338 design.

As far as the different pots, it's just an update they made that was probably due to parts availability. They're electrically the same. You'll find the schematics to both boards in TM5-6115-584-34.pdf, pages 6-13 and 6-14. Rustystud, it's on the way to you.

I'm glad you found the problem. It's unusual for the regulator to fail in a way that prevents generator output, but if something on the board fails in a way that makes it get stuck fully conducting, that's exactly what happens... so much current through CVT1 that it kills the output.

Disconnect and insulate the wire that goes to terminal 17 of the regulator. This removes the regulator from the circuit. Then when you run the generator, you should get too high a voltage, like 170/340. If this happens, the regulator is at fault. If you still don't get any output, it's not...

Which board are you talking about? Do you mean the regulator board or the diode board that supplies exciter field current? There's a good schematic in the PDF file "TM5-6115-584-34.pdf" on page 1-9.