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That's a lot of rust and corrosion in there. I'm not surprised that the diodes may not have been making good contact.

No, once you have the end cover off, you should be able to find all six of the diodes without further disassembly.

The six rotating diodes are all in the same area. Look harder. :)

Sounds like the ones you tested are good, but there are three of each. Even if they all test good, it's still possible there was corrosion at their mounts, and cleaning everything before assembly could fix things.

With a meter that doesn't have the feature built in, you can power a 12v test lamp through the diode and see if it lights the bulb one way but not if you turn the diode around the other way.

Test diodes with the diode test function of a multimeter, not the ohms scale. If unsure, check your meter's manual. Even if working on the diodes doesn't cure the problem, it will almost certainly prevent a future one.

If that were mine, I'd unbolt the diodes from the mounts, do whatever it takes to clean the corrosion off the mounts, clean the diodes, check the diodes with a meter to make sure they're good, put a thin coat of grease on the mounts and diode threads, and bolt it all back together, and verify...

Is that mass of corrosion really your rotating diodes? I can't imagine they're making contact with the metal bracket properly. In fact I'm having a hard time believing they could work at all, looking like that.

The cooling fan will run slower, but with all the cooling capacity available, I doubt if that would normally be a problem. Obviously the frequency output will be way off. The generator may not be able to maintain normal output voltage. Running higher than 1,800 rpm will make the regulator...

The 002A and 003A use a magnetic amplifier (CVT1) that is controlled by the regulator. Regulator output is sent through the control windings of CVT1 when the regulator wants to reduce generator output. This means that if you run the engine below 1,800 rpm, the regulator will see the low output...

The application of 12v to the exciter field is just a set to see if the generator itself is OK. It it causes output power somewhere in the ballpark of correct, you can rule out a main generator problem. It's usually done with a battery, and that should be stable enough to give a reasonably...

It's possible that turning the adjustment screws on the regulator back and forth several times will fix a problem with dirty contacts in the potentiometers. Just count turns and be sure you get them back where they were when you're done. Really, either one could be causing the instability...