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Did you clean junk off the two pin plug at the alternator? And have you double checked the connections on the new wires? Something is not making good contact somewhere.

Yes on the red lead on both sides of the diode. You should have 24v on both sides with the key on.

Todays exercise - We have checked the path of the circuit and have narrowed the problem down to a small area. Here is a summary: 1. from the 24 Positive Terminal Block to the 24v fuse - Good voltage 2. from the 24v fuse via the orange wire to the "hot side" of the GEN2 bulb - Good...

Next test, open the hood and pull the two wire plug from GEN2. With the key off, check the small red wire. Should have 24v. The brown wire should be zero volts. With the key on, check the brown wire. It should be 24v

Help me here, which wires had voltage (colors) and what is the "other" plug?

Next step, pull the GEN2 relay and check for voltage at the BROWN/RED wire of the plug. You should have 24v. And check for 12v at the pink/black wire with the key on. And if that works, check for 24v at the diode with the key on. Check both sides of the diode. You can check the diode with...

Okay, since you can get pictures, try this. Check the fuse for the ignition circuit. It controls the GEN2 relay. The diode that is in the GEN2 circuit is behind the heater control.

That third relay in the dash is for the Black Out Lights. The two relays on the "plate" are the Voltmeter relay and the GEN2 relay You can get the Tech Manuals at www.jatonksm35s.com You will want Apendix F from the -20 manual or Apendix E from the -35 manual. They are the same in both...

With WebTV can you get any of the pictures or diagrams? And do you have a copy of the Tech Manuals? I've slept siince you told me last time I asked.

Use your voltmeter to check for voltage at the new inline fuse for the GEN2 exciter. You should see 24v. If not we will have to trace backwards to find the problem, The "ground half" of the GEN2 circuit is the alternator itself. Here is the laymans path: from the 24 Positive Terminal...

The 24v fuse blew because of the"spark" at the voltmeter. From your description of the voltage at the blulb. I would clean the contacts at the bulb holder and maybe install a new bulb just for grins. Pull the bulb holder and check the ohms at the bulb and the holder. According to the...

Congrats. Now you get to learn how to rebuild an alternator....[thumbzup]

When you arc'ed the Gen2, you may have blown one on the fuseable links or even the 24v fuse. Time to breakout the voltmeter and check wires IF you use a civvy alt for GEN1 you do not need the ground wire as the case is the ground.

Can you post a picture of the bad connectors or which wires they are? It will help diagnosing what went wrong. P.S. The engine compartment harness has a few wires cut. The wiper motor wires are about 6" long and both alternator wires are cut. The rest looks like it is all there.

The black ground wire at the emergency brake is used for many items in the dash, Seatbelts buzzer and lights, dash lights, Injector pump power shutoff, and more. Not just the 24v stuff. Here is the wiring diagram for the alternators.