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Ensuring you have good batteries is important because as the available voltage decreases, whatever's being driven by the batteries starts to draw more current. With the old, original PCB boxes (silver label Prestolites etc.), the extra current drawn across copper relay contacts wouldn't matter...

I've had lots of bad starters on diesels that draw far too much - many 6.2s and 6.5s in both CUCV and HMMWV - but also Ford 7.3s in our ambulances, which all seem to expire within about 10,000 miles of one-another.)

The earlier control boxes (Prestolite original types) had relays, which, if I remember correctly, were one for the Starter, one for the Alt-to-Bat connection, and one for the Glow Plug circuit. So, you'd get boxes that would clunk and not connect Alt --> Bat so no charging, and boxes that would...

Box might be full of water, but if you have a DVM handy that does resistance, pull a couple of the glow plug wires off and measure between the tip of the glow plug and a clean ground with the meter set to a low ohms scale or diode check. If the meter indicates an open circuit, the plug is bad -...

As has been said - latest and greatest box - but either you have a ground problem or the box is full of water. Given what I've had happen before...I'm guessing the latter of the two.

You're good on your PCB and GPC if your starter solenoid is clicking, so you have other problems. This is probably a stupid question, but are you sure you've hooked your batteries up in series, and that those batteries are charged? Sounds like it's trying to run on 12V instead of 24. There...