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Sorry, I left my phone in the jeep.....Missed my daughter too, she was gonna buy me lunch! There are 2 o-rings up there. One is the big round o-ring around the main pump body, the other is a square cut one that goes in a machined spot on the gear housing, it is about 1/4 id and 3/8 od, this is...

Bosch # 0402736842 is a 190 HP @ 2500, 475 ft lb @1600 torque rating with 11.5 degrees of timing, B series engine. Gov break....unloaded governor speed is 2825 to 2925 RPM. Is is an RQVK governor. Bad news is that the MW series fuel lines will not work on work on a P pump, delivery valves are...

Call Cummins with your ESN and see if there is a ReCon pump available, just to see if there is a big difference in price. It will be"stock" so you will need to tinker with timing mods.

Gear housing, pump drive gear, fuel lines need changing. For the lines you will need an ESN for a P pumped C with an aftercooler so you can get the lines. When the P pump was introduced, IIRC 1994, the engines went from aftercooled to charge air cooled. Industrial kept aftercooling for a time...

Yup, that's a good one!

Take it to the shop

That is what I meant, the environment it was in while opened up. The size of the hit on the piston and head is what would determine the reuse of the rod. One little piece stuck in a piston from a failure in another cylinder, it would be ok. If the crown is unrecognizable, time for a rod.

Unless the block is cracked between the liners, it can easily be fixed in chassis. The parts just need replacing. IF what happened to Mos' engine was a warrant able failure, it would have got a new head, turbo, up to 6 cylinder kits, aftercooler, rods as deemed necessary by the inspecting...

Hey Mos, you DID replace the aftercooler, didn't you? All the pieces of the dropped seats find their way to other cylinders via the intake. They are moving at a very high velocity and some pieces like to get wedged in the aftercooler core. YOU will not be able to see them or get them out, but...

No need to bleed anything. The Bosch in line pumps self bleed. Hold the throttle pedal to the wood and crank it. Mos, no break in oil needed, just run it 'til the next oil change interval, unless you were dirty going together, like lots of dirt/dust flying around with things open. I am not a fan...

Cool on progress...unlike OTHERS!!! What happened to your font size :shock: Load the pig as soon as you can, no idle, no stop and go.

Buy all of the hold down bolts too, they stretch when rocker shafts break. Make sure you loosen and back the valve adjuster screws out. A heads up, the torque to yield method is ONLY used if you have the TTY head bolts. Using this method on non TTY bolts will result in broken head bolts. If you...

From the pics, all looks good. Use a wire wheel on a drill motor to clean the liner bores and lower receivers, a block of wood with 320 paper on it for the deck, avoid those spinning disc things, they remove material. After it is all clean, no need to polish it, just remove the chunks, spray...

That hole looks OK. Turning the fuel up in these early engines might be OK for non daily commerce use, the duty cycle is not like a garbage truck. Marine versions of this engine weren't released until mid 90's IIRc and the build change for these engines, thick decks, better head castings, etc...

Mos, this version of the C was.....growing pain.....for Cummins. Theses were prone to head cracking and dropping seats, and the dreaded block crack between liners. Can't tell you how many garbage trucks I did head jobs and block replacements on. Most likely nothing anybody let happen. If you use...

Just be mindful of the piston cooling nozzles, They are some sort of plastic and can break easily if they are hit with a hard object. The crank comes out if one breaks. The cracks that happen are just between liners at the deck only. It has been a bit, I don't remember if the early C had tabs...

The cracks between the liners are naked eye visible when they happen. You can wipe the block off good, spray rust penetrant on the deck, let it sit a bit, wipe and use the ball end of a ball peen and lightly tap the block if the liners are out and the crack will either appear or "spit" the...

Older C series engines were prone to cracking in a few places, injector bore to valve, between valves, spring seat area and between the liners. If you get a newer casting head as a replacement, the head cracking issues will be no more. Look between the liners for cracks. If there are cracks...

Post 71, Don't know if he noticed, but he took very good pics of the failure. 5 and 6 cylinder exhaust seats dropped. When they drop, they break up into little squares/rectangles. The pieces will migrate back into the intake and get into other cylinders and the air compressor, remember, it...

Just enough to take the squared off edge and split it on the same end, the radius allows it to slip into the tappet easier and the split you make allows the dowel to be pushed into the pushrod area of the tappet, it is a shade under .500. You need to pull the fuel pump gear, time the engine and...