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:popcorn:

I still think it's simpler to just replace the ECU entirely.

So on my 1078A0 the relay is normally closed to 87A which means that the CTIS lights get 12V normally just when the truck is on. The headlight position does not matter for that. However when you select blackout lighting it energizes the relay and closes it to 87, which drops pin S, which turns...

Ha so the TMs are "wrong", and the breaker schematic. Or so it seems. They label the relay K52 as "CTIS Overspeed Indication Relay". Pin S on the CTIS ECU makes its way to the K52 relay. If that relay is closed to 87A which is connected to CB40 - the CTIS breaker - it is hot to 24V. This is...

So I got my cab down - another story - and checked pin S. Sure enough, no voltage, regardless of the light switch position. It's not grounded either, it's just nothing. I took the cable apart and it is wired. It vanishes off into the dash to who knows where. I haven't tried jumping 24V into it...

update: so according to the documentation I have, pin S is the blackout input. It should be at battery voltage for lights, or grounded out for no lights. I haven't checked mine yet, I have other complications, tennmogger maybe you want to look at yours.

Here's my guess, the A1s are wired with some sense line for it and the A0s are missing the line or the 18 year old mechanics flubbed it when retro'ing the switches in. Just like my Allison panel dims when the lights are any position rather than dimming when the panel lights are on. So the...

"Flashes the lights when the power is first applied, then zero lights (regardless of headlight light position)"

I am half not surprised I guess. The guy on the auction said it was off an MRAP or whatever so the PSI it's programmed with for the highway is too high, so that's a big clue. He claimed it'd work on a 1078 though. The description is as below, which I include just for the interest of it. Maybe...

Wilco

So even though my cab is stuck forward ha ha did not stop me from trying the new CTIS computer I got. https://www.flickr.com/photos/adventioneering/27703157996/in/dateposted-public/ Flashes the lights when the power is first applied, then zero lights (regardless of headlight light position)...

Let us know when you figure out the signalling on the pressure transducer (not the pressure switch, the other one). I'm in the process of getting a new controller in so I can put a scope on it, but if you figure it out you'll save me the trouble.

74m35a2 never got back to us with the word on the diagnostic pins... :< I've got all the arduino stuff and relay boards here to make up a from-scratch ECU, and my replacement CTIS parts (so far as I know I need them), but I am in the throws of moving back up to Washington so it's on hold until I...

I have a LMTV, not a 5-ton.

Mine looks to have been built in 95, which makes sense (I have a 97 truck).

Yours is much different inside, which is interesting in and of itself. The daughter board for the connector is really nice - that part looks similar. I wouldn't mine one of those that went to a header of some kind. I don't know how closely you looked at yours but on mine that was the board it...

c'est la vie. I can scrape everything out to potentially re-use this enclosure, but, I will destroy the mainboard removing it for sure. The jelly is on the bottom underneath the board and is essentially gluing it down. One thing I'll say is the thing seems to be well thought out other than the...

I dunno but 25 bucks will get us a broken one on that well known auction site...

Maybe you lucked out! How does that module compare to the one I posted (make/model/date/etc)?

OK I tore into the controller. Jeez coffey was not kidding about the jelly. Pics are here, they seemed to be too big to want to upload: https://www.flickr.com/photos/adventioneering/albums/72157661316728564 The Amphenol jack connects to a PCB which then connects to the mainboard with a pair of...