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If there is that much slop, it might be worth checking the pinion bearings, too. Otherwise the new seal will start to leak in short order. Look at this thread for a few tips: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/rockwell-pinion-bearing-help-please.156915/ If you end up needing bearings...

clever!

If you need a valve and/or a spring I have both if you need it. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

No, do not do that without at the very least addressing the diesel fuel getting into the oil (hence the huge volume you drained). You need to - bypass the FDC - change the O-rings sealing the hydraulic head and shutoff - check or eliminate the flame heater - check/change booster pump seals If...

From the TM....this is was I was thinking for the curved tube. It has two 90 degree bends in it, one downwards and one to the right, the opening pointing to the passenger side. Maybe the pipe came loose from the brackets and was whacked by the rotating crankshaft? The fractured part would be...

So, your engine is "making oil". That is one thing to address, through changing some important o rings. Diluted engine oil causes leaks. The broken part...I was staring at it and it vaguely looks like a piece of oil pickup tube. You'd see that on the bottom end more or less straight away with...

Here are the pics from the manual re turbo lines: Difficult to see but a head gasket oil leak at the rear of the block could also have oil running down the back of the block and then over to one side and down onto the starter. Something to look for.

The oil supply and oil return lines for the turbo sit on the passenger side near the starter. Return line has a fabric covered piece of high temp hose to connect the metal line to the block....I'd be suspieious of that one. Other than these, it may be the oil pan itself or its seal leaking in...