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When I have had the fuel system opened up, I usually let the in-tank pump run for 30-40 seconds, open the bleeder on the secondary filters till all the air is out then close it. Next I'll open the pass side windshield, put truck in neutral, hold a can of ether in right hand, hit the starter...

I have put sheet metal in boxes to ensure the product was shipped and received in good condition. Sometimes it takes me longer to package things than it does to sell them!

Might include a note to seller to print "do not fold" on the box.

Ehhh, its hard to say it was the seller, I've had the post office mangle lots of my mail.

Nope! I wouldn't use them. There is a torque sequence for putting the heads back on, Make sure you use it and you won't miss any of the nuts. Now you have to find out if you have a thick deck motor or not- that will let you know which torque settings to go by. Look on the block, just...

NO you don't NEED to pull the injectors, just be careful setting the head down so you don't rest it on the injector tips, lay it on its side. I made a wrench to get those head nuts off, another guy here in town told me an oxygen sensor wrench from horrible freight worked wonderfully.

I would, but thats just me. As old as the motor is, I believe it to be a good practice.

Just take the head off and take it to a machine shop. Tell them you want it shaved for flatness, do a valve job, and put freeze plugs in it. While they do that, you can clean up everything else. I'd recommend pulling the manifolds off and setting them out of the way, there is a lot of weight...

I think I have new style head gaskets if your looking.

Figure at least 3 days. One to pull the head, one to clean everything up, one to put back together.