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Yes but! The ether kit is 100% ether where the starting fluid is only like 8 or 10%.

My deuce has started on its own in 0* or less. Its not really needed down your way. I plug all mine off. I'll see if I have any parts next time I get up to the barn.

no.

If the filters are plugged, that can cause it. Ive driven my tr7ck till the fuel filters shut the motors down on the highway. Swap 5hem out and im good to go.

I know its too late now, but for future reference, spray the starting fluid after the motor is turning over, not before.

Well, reading that latest post, maybe he is saying the lines in the hyd head?

So he took the 12pt bolt out and looked over the delivery valve, seems in good shape. He DID mention that he could NOT blow through the injector lines from the Hyd head to the injectors. Anyone have a spare set? I only have one spare line to offer(#4).

Just hung up from talking to Derpy. The hyd head is out. The button IS still attached. The drive washe ISN'T broken. I mentioned it might be the delivery valve on the side of the head(12pt screw) but I know those are finicky and hard to get good parts for. I wanted to see what you guys think it...

The button is on the bottom of the plunger, not the quill shaft. The quill shaft is what spins the hydraulic head.

Thatsthem! Its best if you call.

Derpy has my contact info and can call with any questions. We have spoke already and it seems as if the button fell off the plunger.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?69241-Removing-rebuilding-reinstalling-Hydraulic-Head

Just got off the phone with the guys, it turns over but doesn't fire. Might be hyd head button fell off.

Actually, you could pull the spline caps(front) and axles(rear) and it would only roll on the bearings, no need to check that other crap.

Just take a pair of batteries and see if it will start. Make sure you check the fuel shut off rod moves freely before hitting the start button.

PM headed your way.