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Great job! I'm glad you stuck with it and I'm happy to help.

Your welcome, that is what we are here for. I believe your right, from your measurement I come up with .187mm late. So your button 13 is 3.17 + .187 = 3.357mm. Button 15 is 3.33mm I agree with button 15. I see one on ebay for $25 with free shipping. The other place surplusgarage is $24.19+...

Maybe, its hard to say. It may be stamped with 12 because that was the match on the engine it came from. If it was me, I would do the flow test as soon as you put the new pump on. Take the big cap off the center of the head, it's like a 7/8, then use a 16mm to take the delivery spring holder out...

There is A and B on the flywheel along with PC. A and B are for checking the clearance between the rocker and valve. Your supposed to do this every 500 hours 'I believe' from the TM. I usually do 1000 hour intervals. When you get to the combustion stroke of cylinder one, you would turn the...

I'm sorry, do the same thing but look for PC on the flywheel, its right before A, that is where the pump should be installed. I had a brain fart this morning and was thinking of the valve timing.

On the first unit, I would say the injectors are leaking while they engine is running. Instead of closing completely after the combustion stroke, they are continuing to leak into the cylinder. More than likely it won't leak enough to get into the oil but its enough to saturate the cylinders...

On the first pump, its not the pump causing the oil build up. 99% when you have excessive smoke and oil substance coming out the exhaust, its going to be the injectors. They are leaking into the cylinder. There is only one large gasket between the head and pump body, the plunger is the only...

More than likely the oil pressure switch is bad on the motor, that is the reason why it won't keep running after you let go of the start switch. You can jump the oil switch with a wire and it should stay running. Then, if the gauges are not reading, more than likely its the ground on the...

Yeah, Ambac is the only place I have found. The last time I ordered one, it was $30. It's worth the money because it won't run exactly perfect without it.

In the second picture, that is the top of the plunger (it has the small hole in the center). Use your punch and lightly tap it with a hammer, then rotate the motor a little and tap it again. Keep doing this for a while, until it moves freely. The plunger has very close tolerances in the head and...

Take some needle nose and take the assembly out. Its the thing with the hole in it. After you remove that, the head of the plunger is there. That is what you hit with the dowel.

The plunger inside the pump is stuck. If you take the delivery valve holder off and remove the spring, with the assembly. You will see the plunger, rotate the motor over by hand and you should see the plunger moving in and out. If not, the plunger is stuck. Take a wood or brass dowel, put it in...