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My understanding is that the spherical nut on the bottom of the rod should stay in contact with the black throttle arm.

I would suggest adjusting the rod length per the TM and see if you can achieve 5/16" gap at no load and have it remain running. Maybe a tiny bit wider if the magnet grabs it.

With my A5 in there the actuator will not lift off the magnet until you put S1 in START. The moment S1 goes into the START position my A5 sends a pulse to the actuator to lift the actuator off the magnet. If this is not happening, then it would appear the magnet strength may be set too high...

Don't bother running it with K12 removed. Doing so prevents the Governor Controller from every getting power. If the set shuts down while running AND K12 isn't illuminated when the engine comes to a stop indicates it stopped for some reason other than the Fault Monitor detecting a fault...

"Pins D&E: 85.8 VDC (nominal 0) (yes, checked this 3 times)" It was probably actually millivolts or microvolts and your meter autoranged. The signal across D&E is normally almost 0 VDC at No load and just about 5 VDC at full load. It's the load signal from the inverter to the A5 to tell it...

1) I noticed the white Molex connector and wires for the actuator were getting caught on the actuator arm throughout the video. You need to reposition them, so they don't interfere with the actuator. 2) There is at least one A5 problem. The actuator should lift off the magnet the moment you...