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Sure. The cable length isn't super critical - that's why I only used a loop on the TG end (for ease of removal, just pull the pin out of the TG bracket); the end that connects to the link at the end of the lever is clamped between a couple pieces of 1/4" aluminum so I could take up the slack...

OK - it looks like that may have worked - so here's the pics of the parts I used (before attachment to the truck): The first one shows the pulleys (small one - under bed, longer bracket attaches to bedside), and the link between cable and spring - before I decided to make a clamp (of two flat...

trying to add pictures Sorry, when I added the pictures last night, I used the "manage attachments" feature - which attached the pictures as thumbnails - they looked OK (and I can open them fine on my laptop), but I can't seem to open them when I view this thread on my phone. Maybe that's the...

A different approach I thought I'd finally add a writeup with how I decided to solve this problem on my truck. While Rusty's approach works, I was not fond of the way that it failed to allow the tailgate (TG) to go all the way down (180 degrees - instead of the 90 or so that the horse trailer...

Here's what I was thinking (hopefully you can see what I'm thinking from the pics I hope will upload)... Upper red pin is anchored to the bed-side (would have to be removable for dropsides); lower red pin is the tailgate's hinge. Blue pin is to connect one end of spring to pivot-link (other...

Rusty, I had not thought of a tailgate assist until I saw this thread, now I want one. I took a look at your hydraulic-cylinder drawings, but I don't see how they could work. The first design (drawings 1 & 2) seems to me won't work because your "welded stop bracket" won't allow the link...