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You typically don't get to "suspect" valve float. You realize it happened during the tear down. And yes, that's the same trick I used to do springs on 5.9's. I also did studs without replacing head gaskets. But that's a little more involved than just swaping bolts.

Not a lot of room in a diesel to install larger valves. And it's almost pointless in a forced induction engine. O-rings/Fire-ringing the head, yes that's worthwhile. Studs, even better. Wouldn't change the tappets unless I did a cam. Rockers are fine too. Pushrods would be a worthwhile...

While the 8.3 is a lot like a 5.9 in design, they will not rev to what a 5.9 will. I'd recommend staying under 2800rpm. Bad things happen in a cummins 5.9/8.3 when overreved. Mainly the valves try to occupy the same space as the piston. Which is compounded by boost. I spun my 5.9 up to 4K...

Need to consider you're making a apples to orange comparison. There's weight differences between an RV and MVs. As well as a greater difference in driveline mass.

One thing to consider, increased timing causes increased cylinder pressure and temps. Also you can't gain without taking. You'll give up bottom for more top with timing changes. (But given the gearing it might not be a bad trade off) Which can be replaced with studs, which can handle more...