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Funny you mentioned the wheel coming off. Several years ago we had a mechanic install the front wheels on a 60ft New Flyer bus. He didn't tighten the lock nut properly. The bus had just got on the freeway when the whole wheel assembly came off ( all 300 Ibs ) and went past the bus ! The driver...

Actually you can tell the difference with a long pinch bar. Our New Flyer and Gillig busses both have the front wheel bearings set with .002" to .003" endplay. After awhile you can feel the difference. For the first few hundred times you still use the dial indicator.

I have set through that presentation before too. The US manufacturers like to have loose bearings and the Europeans like tight bearings. Go figure. That's why I keep stressing use the manual.

I think your assuming I'm mad or angry. I'm not. I was just saying it is hard to describe a "feels like" to someone else. After doing this job for so many years you need to "show" someone what you mean. This is one of the problems in a technical forum like here. Pictures help, (but if I knew...

I know of one mechanic who used to take a 5ft long pinch bar and try and rock the tire after installation, by placing the bar under the tire (which was about 2 inches from the ground) and pulling up on the bar. If any movement was felt he would retighten the hub nut. Lot of work this way though.

That's why I said to back off 20 degrees. This will usually give a zero clearance. What I personally do is back off until there is no pressure on the nut, and then slowly turn in "just snug" by hand. Of course I have been doing this for over 37 years, so it's hard to tell someone what it should...

The best way without knowing the Manufacturers specifications is to tighten to about 150 ft.Ibs. then back off 20 degrees. Then move the lock ring tighter until it fits. Some bearings take over 300 ft. Ibs. to set, so if you can use the TM's to set the preload properly.