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They will keep the bounce down. I have them on my 915 and they ride much better than the adjustable gabriel.

I use a hammer on the wrench or I use a long chisel and use it against the notches in the castle nut to get it moving

14.00s bounce. so do 1600s. 395s do not. Especially the excess bounce on the front tandem axle. its just something with the tires

Nope. Wrench will fit between the spring pack and the frame to get the uppers loose and then you can work from sitting on the ground to get the bone off the axle clamp. On normal cargo trucks its pretty easy. The wrecker suspensions are the pain

Well i replaced the Front tandem Upper rod today with 2 more heavy duty ones for a final test phase... It had gotten bad enough that I could feel the axle shift on brake and throttle. Plus it acted like the front axle was always under load. The Upper on the rear axle is getting to be loose as...

a Reply email to my video.

Talked to Erik's today about them and said they had zero complaints or failures. So I ordered 2 more and told them I would send the worn out ones back to them for analysis. Even greased up it still have a good bit of twist movement.

I would expect them to outlast the standard rubber ones that I was running for a year prior to installing those. Especially given the fact they are designed for extreme offroad and heavy loads. I do the heavy loads but it is all on-road use so they should hold up i would think.

Well for a point on the subject. You can wear em out. Around 70,000 miles and this one upper rod with 2 of the heavy duty inserts is toast. I have 2 torque rods that have rubber inserts that have been on the truck longer and have no movement. I put the 2 upper torque rods with those inserts...

On a wrecker you have to remove the saddle on the axle to get the upper torque rods off on the axle side or You have to remove the clamp bracket they are on. Wrecker springs also come apart alot easier. Just undo the U bolts and flip the upper beam bar on its side to access the top nuts on the...

If the truck is driven and operated on a fairly regular schedule the tie rod ends don't tend to have any issues. Even the rubber ones. Just most of these trucks sat for years and years even after rebuilds and the rubber deteriorates and breaks easy from the lack of movement. I have 2 torque...

Honestly I would have drilled grease zerks into those cover pieces so you can pump em full of grease to keep the salt and road junk from getting up behind em and eating everything. If you haven't done it this year go park it in the driveway and put the sprinkler under it and let it wash it off.

Hes gotta come get em first. I am not driving across 3 states of crap roads to bring em to him. I would need a new set by the time i made the round trip drive.

Did you read the TM on how to set your preload?

You should since they are cheap anyway. About 20ea to replace. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

You can take the u bolts off in about 30 seconds. Remove the lift bracket and there they are. Just chisel the cotter pins off and zap em off with an impact. Using a 1-1/2" 1/2" drive chrome socket you can get between the lower dog bone and the trunion to get the inner u bolt nut off. You dont...

I have a set of frame reamer drill bits that do more than enough of chewing thru steel Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Looks like a fancy bit to get in a bind and make itself a curved drill bit. Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Some of the newer type of torque rods have a square back insert so this method of a "safety system" wouldn't work.

Erik's has them back in stock as of this morning.