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I see the problem in the video. Spiderweb on the front of the engine not adjusted correctly. ;-) It sounds like it still could be corrosion on the connectors but my guess is the starter solenoid. That starter isn't light if you take it off. But make sure the engine can turn over first.

I got lucky with my old one. A friend found a gear-reduction starter and put it on. Started easy on two small batteries.

And I wouldn't recommend a new alternator until you determine the one on there is bad. I used a Delco like new one with new brackets. About $115. Some people like them and some don't. I've used them on a M813 and a M35A2 and both worked.

Can you turn the engine over with a bar/socket? It may be frozen.

Did it fail to start the same way as the first time? Just the solenoid clicking? It could be that the cables going to the starter need removed and cleaned to make a good connection. It may arc over a little and then open the connection and that will result in a clunk and no start. The relay...

I guess I was optimistic. :-)

I don't remember the symptoms of a control box problem but they are on this site. The control box is the black box on the firewall and has relays associated with starting in it. You could check the voltage on the starter when you try it making sure not to get anything shorted out or those 4...

I think mine was 6-8mpg and like Mullaney said, go with the low side. While looks aren't everything I'd be doing a lot of work on that truck prior to driving it on a trip like that.

I sold my M813 and I used to live in San Diego County. My piece of advice is to check on whether you can even get it registered to drive in CA. NHC-250 Cummins engine 5 speed manual transmission 2 speed transfer case Sprag front end wheel engagement 24vdc Alternator is lousy IMO I enjoyed...