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Thanks patracy. I ended up removing the entire front (minus hood) as once piece because I decided to do all the consumables on the front at the same time and to get a look under the radiator, inner fenders, fender corners etc. and treat for rust. Once the whole thing was out it was much easier...

Super, thanks! I pulled the OP sensor and fitting out to test if the braided line from the 6.5 would work and it doesn't appear so. Threads are correct but not the angles of the bends in the OEM line. Bummer...going to see if I can source something locally. The block and turbo inlet threads...

Good to know. I'm still waiting on the exhaust studs and that will be the next part I tackle. How did you feed your turbo oil? From pressure transducer port up high or that gallery plug down by the oil cooler lines? I've read people doing both but don't know if one way offers an advantage or...

I read somewhere that one must be careful when changing injectors: their pop-open pressure has to match the IP. I believe I also read that the 6.5 and 6.2 IPs are fairly close but the civy trucks had several IPs available and I don't know if they differ between the heavy duty and standard IPs...

I decided to pull the entire front as one piece since I am doing the harmonic balancer and timing chain at the same time. Looks like it's doable without removing the radiator but I pulled mine anyway to see what the rust situation on the radiator support looks like. Good thing too, it looks...

hmm think this would be even easier? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showpost.php?p=3954643&postcount=69

So I just got a 6.5TD setup from a guy parting out his pickup. Looking a bit closer at my M1009 and it looks like it's going to be a tight fit between the manifolds and the frame on the passenger side. So for those that have performed this before: would it be easier to pull the whole engine...