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So I got everything hooked up and running tonight. This Orion unit has a variable output, instructions say max is 15v, but my harbor freight volt meter says 16+v. I think the window motors would do fine on 15-16v but would a radio/stereo tolerate it?

Ha never mind. I just hooked them up to 24v to see what would happen. While they had TONS of power- sparks fly when they get all the way up and you keep the switch held down. Oh well.

My wiring harness must have been defective, two wires were touching where the shielding had fused together, I pulled those apart and that problem is solved- seller sending me a new harness. The glass is laminated glass and quite heavy, at least a 1/4” thick. I probably should have gotten...

They are new. It’s a generic/custom window regulators and wiring harness. Both are fairly idiot proof as far as the wiring goes https://www.ebay.com/itm/284416659858 https://www.ebay.com/itm/142247866707

So yes my ground goes to that bare on the battery box where all the other grounds are. Just to eliminate that being the cause I used some jumper cables was to my my f150 battery. Tested at 12v. Trying to get one window to move I fried a 30 amp fuse- which one motor I don’t think should pull...

I’ve figured out the 12v wiring. But on 12v the motors have no balls and can’t lift or even lower the glass. So I need more power at the motors, or something else will have to change

Out of curiosity- what would happen if powered my window motors with 24v ??? I read that motors can overheat if run on a higher voltage, but with windows I don’t really see that being an issue?

Found it! Thanks. I think the wire is 16 gauge? The insulation on these humvees is thicker than normal wire so it’s hard to tell

Well, I was digging around looking for 29T and didn’t find it. I found 29 A B and C behind the battery box. I re-checked the schematic and I Pathan’s I should have been looking underneath down by the steering column? I’ve had trouble finding the transmission relay and had thought it was behind...

Posting this for future readers doing this project: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/help-with-victron-orion-24-12-converter-please.47648/ Recommends 8 gauge wire and 50 amp fuse on line feeding the Orion unit

I decided to order a similar fuse block to the one in that video I linked to. As far as the negative goes, I plan to connect the Orion unit’s ground to the ground bar in the battery box, and then connect the fuse block’s ground to the ground terminal on the Orion unit. That will obviously...

I will look for the 29T wire and consider it. But I may decide to mount this box on top of the tunnel, which keeps it closer to the things I need to power, and out of the water if I ever ford that deep. Then it might make more sense to use the ignition. When I get the chance to investigate...

Thank you, and everyone else, for your expertise. What size fuse would you put between the batteries and Orion? The Orion is rated at 70 amps so is 70 amps right? I think I’ll just put the power for the relay switch off the ignition. It should be easy enough to add a wire. I think the ones...

So to have this key on/off it only needs power going into the right green terminal, which I could pull right off the ignition. And that’s it - no need for an extra fuse or anything?

So for $150 bucks this orion unit doesn’t seems so bad. I found the below video of a guy installing one on a humvee. But it doesn’t seem to cut off with the ignition. You are saying there’s a built in relay so that it’ll cut off with the switch?

This is all good news. A typical car stereo is 10-12 amps max. That was the only other system I was planning to run. I would be fine adding one of those Orion converters if it prevents a damaged battery (or fire) down the road. I’d rather do it right, once. But if you all say that’s...

Well eventually I plan to put a radio in, which would need to turn off. With windows if they were all being put up at once, and hit the top and loaded out, you sure that’s ok? 52amps seams ridiculous to me as entire houses have 100 amp panels, but maybe it’s a volts thing- electricity...

Ok. I checked around and it seems that 13 amps is a good ballpark for power window motors. That’s each. So all four at the same time could be 52 amps.

Ok I’m on the right track, I just can’t figure the wrong diagrams on these relays. The one at this link has two good diagrams in the pictures ...

I’ll stop at O’reilys or autozone and hopefully one of the people there can help me get the right parts and maybe even walk me through the wiring. But if I understand right, I will take power off the ignition switch (which is 24v) , put an inline fuse in, then connect to a 24v relay (which...