Search results

From my studying, there are several sensors on the cylinder heads. The cold start switch is a 100°F switch that closes (complete circuit) below 100°F and opens above (broken circuit). This switch should have a pink/black wire that is ignition switched power, and a green wire that goes first to...

Does your cold-kick-up work? Should be a little cylinder on the top of the Injection Pump with a single wire coming out of it (green IIRC). That would help a bit when cold...

You should be able to crank safely up to 10-20 seconds, then rest (off) for 30-60 seconds to let the motor cool down and for the battery chemical reaction to catch up. It also goes without saying, but merritts mention - you should have nothing switched "on" other than the glow plugs and the...

Note that this is only true if the glow plugs are loading down the battery (i.e., they are not already bad) - just the relay itself isn't enough to make the voltmeter or any lights change in appearance. The multimeter gives you a window into a balanced load - if the load is unbalanced it'll...

Yes, or if you have good ears the click of the relay (my ears suck, but there is still a significant "clunk" every time that thing turns on and off...). I edited my post before you quoted it and we rolled onto the next page - worth a read...

Those (AC60G) and the Bosch Duraterm Inconel 601 parts. Both are self regulating and are less likely to swell (Bosch the least likely due to the shell alloy). Again: The wait light and glow plug relay are not electrically connected!!! Just because the wait light went out doesn't mean it...

The wait light duration and separately the glow time (pre-glow, after-glow) depends on the ambient temperatures (most accurately the ambient temperature's effect on the temperature of the block/heads). Yes the voltage supplied to the glow relay will drop to around 11.5-12.5V with correctly...

The controller should be isolated from 24V by the GP relay. The control lugs should have about 12V when the ignition is on and the relay goes "click" - in general if the controller is turning on the wait light and the relay goes click, I'd suspect that portion of your glow systems is running...

Sorry - mention of the Wellmans made it sound like you had 6 AC13s that were stuck and burned, and two Wellmans that came out and worked...

If all of the glow plugs were not type/brand matched that's probably what did the others in. They all need to have the same electrical characteristics or the ones with the lowest resistance will burn the hottest. Do you know what model the Wellmans were?

So you do have ballast resistors if you see 24V unswitched at the solenoid. Well 24V at the switched side (glow plug side) of the glow plug relay tells me you may not have any functioning glow plugs any more. That would make it a bear to start. I did a post on what you would see with a...

Not so much ballast resistors I worry about as fusible links. if you keep the resistors clean there's really nothing to catch fire (unless you like to keep your engine compartment clean and shiny with a judicious application of WD-40 or 15W40).

Yup - when they fail they stop heating, sometimes they fail swollen and need to be removed with some extra grunt work, sometimes the tips break off and fall in the cylinders. Make sure you check the resistors before putting them back in a circuit if they were removed by a previous owner -...

And reply with what voltage you see on the "always hot" side when the key is off.... The ballast resistors of a 24V glow system are located in a bracket on the firewall directly behind the air filter housing: If those are missing, and you're measuring 12V at the relay, the resistors have been...