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I'm not ready to finish my brake lines and didn't want it acting ( moving the actuator) against a dry cylinder. It has near no play to get a head start shearing the bolt off.

There is a bolt that I put in to lock the brake out. It's easy to drill if you disassemble the brake unit. While inside, straighten the bent pieces that they all seem to have. Photo is not really very easy to see the bolt, but if interested, I can provide details.

The plate on mine is painted over and I can't scrape it off. Glad to hear the 1101 has a higher rating, I'm putting a Geithner S788 shelter on mine and mounting tubes under it, making it longer on both ends for a camper build. It might get heavy.

I see a consensus that they are the same. It would be interesting to see inside the axle. Only a few inches would change the rating and it's in a spot that cannot be seen. I wonder if the manufacturer says they are the same. I understand the reasoning, re the tow vehicle authorization.

My guess is, the rubber in the 1101 is a bit shorter than the 1102. These axles are a square within a square and the rubber is pressed and frozen into a triangle shape, then put together in one fast move. As the rubber comes up from about -250f, it expands to fill the four corners. The longer...

I worked at a company that made torsion axles in Jackson Ohio. I don't think a one had shocks. Freezing rubber with liquid nitrogen is cool. Our biggest customer was Airstream. I don't think I ever saw one bouncing down the road. Dexter makes them too and none I have seen have shocks...

Wow, I can't figure why people would change from this 8 lug to a 6 when it is a standard Dexter and Ford 8 lug wheel. I went the opposite way, using HMMWV wheels and tires on my Dexter axle (and 105 bed).