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Evening all, just wanted to post an update and provide proper information to anyone that might need it. This will be a precursor to my hub teardown and rebuild thread that will be coming shortly, but I just wanted to make sure I got my information correct for when I gather it all for the rebuild...

I just didn't want to bother you right now, Rick, with all this nonsense going on in the world and knowing you're backlogged with shipping as it is. With the new one coming in from the Amazon on sunday, I'll be able to get the truck one step closer to being on the road again after who knows how...

Welp, I guess it's time for another update. Yesterday while working on the M1031, I was able to get my gear selector to move in ON and ACC positions on the column. I was having an issue where the gear selector would only move in the ACC position after replacing the ignition switch under the dash...

I appreciate the experience-based explanation of the rear prop valve, gentlemen. I guess if I were to take an honest evaluation of the truck, maybe "boat-load" isn't a great description of the weight that I'm going to try to maintain. After loading up basically all of my tools minus a few odds...

I'll have to let you know how this backyard remanning of the current one goes. My living situation is in a bit of turmoil right now and will be for a few weeks, so I have to look local for a bit longer. I appreciate it though, you be safe up there and make sure to fire up the Kubota for me.

Yeah, I figured out after looking at the wiring diagram again that it links to the brake warning light on the dash and after looking at the cutaway picture in the new combo valve's instructions, I figured it was an open circuit through the combo valve until the innards moved one way or another...

As suspected, based off empirical evidence and the GM technical bulleting regarding the matter, my rear prop valve is the culprit for no rear brakes. I am going to try and find a similar vehicle at the local junk yard tomorrow to see if I can find a bypass line or replacement for the prop valve...

Got the new combo valve in the mail and on the truck as well as a new master cylinder. Still no rear brakes though, so I am guessing next at the rear prop valve to be the issue. I will disconnect the height adjustment arm for the prop valve to let it freely move to see if that allows fluid to...

Right on the money with the leaking rear seals on the master cylinder. I'm gonna check around and see which store has it closest, but my nearest Advanced is closed right now due to someone catching the cooties that's shut down the planet. I'll have to see if I can fabricate a small plate like...

Nevermind, I got it now with that electrical connection on the prop valve up front. It's for the braking warning light to illuminate the brake icon on the dash if there is uneven braking. I read this thread here about how Barrman's valve had had a stupid hard braking going forward and how slowly...

Understood Sharecropper, I'll put my ugly peepers on that bulletin just to see what it was all about. I just ordered the Jegs 631290 valve last night because I had been linked to on another thread here on SS and I thought it had been agreed upon to be kosher. The link is here and the link to the...

Weekly update for anyone that is interested. Got to ripping into the brakes today and I was going to flush all of the yellow fluid out of my system until I noticed that my cylinder wasn't pushing fluid out when breaking the bleeder. I dug around a little bit and checked the other side and didn't...

One more quick update. Got all of my service lights worked out and they are operating as designed now. Also scratched in the starter relay mod as well as dressing the harness up with some hockey tape for more structure. Replaced all the bulbs in the instrument cluster and cleaned that up while I...

Progress update for the day. I looked at the back of the fuse panel today as well as the wiring diagrams in the -20 and noticed the diodes on the back of the hazard and turn signal flashers that looked a little melty. I figured that if those were enough to kill a horn circuit, they might be...

Just to post an update, I've started diggin into the wiring on the truck and am slowly coming back up from the deep dive. I screwed myself when I hooked up the service light circuit to the positive terminal on the rear battery instead of the negative and double-volted that mess. All I had to do...

I figured with the corona nonsense causing a big ruckus that the Badger Diesel shop linked above wouldn't be quick to ship like before the outbreak. With the O'reillys having one in the state, it would be much quicker to start rummaging through all the wiring issues this truck has. Might have...

Just posting an update for the folks that are interested. I replaced the fuel injection pump in the truck, a 2520 I believe, with a rebuilt 2544 from Oreilly's and have been able to start and stop the truck on demand. Thank you all so much for the help.

Those prices are a whole lot better than what I could get at the O'reilly's. I'll definitely be looking into them, hopefully they'll still ship with this corona lockdown happening around the country. Thank you

Thank you for letting me know that, I was in the process of replacing all the shoes and hardware around the truck before I did a flush on the JB8 brake system. I had picked up a quart bottle of DOT 3, but thankfully I haven't put any in the master cylinder yet. I'll make sure to stop by the...

So, I just remembered that I had asked about this a while back and forgot that I took the multimeter out back to test the power to the injection pump. Coming from the positive terminal of the front battery, there was 12v to all three plugs on the injection pump that I could find. Coming from the...