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I went to HF and bought the 4pc Jumbo SAE wrench set which includes a 2-1/4" open end / box. In hindsight, I should've bought a 2-1/4" crows foot which can be used for both removal and install/torquing on the outer ends of the uppers and lowers. On the plus side, the HF 2-1/4" box end was...

UPDATE: All 12 torque rod bushings have been successfully replaced and installed in THOR. This task has been (for me at least) the single most challenging so far. The fabrication & acquisition of various tools (some successful, others not so much) and physicality needed at times tested my...

Regarding the "compression plate"; while it helped, the tool I had the most success with was the home-made pickle fork. It successfully removed 6 of the 12 bushings. I fab'd it from a 2 1/8" crows foot wrench and 1 1/4" (?) diameter DOM pipe. Several solid wacks on the business end did the...

@Brutacus: That's one Serious Air Hammer you have there Sir! @Jbulach & @74M35A2 thank you for clarifying the strike zone. So today I decided that Finesse is highly over-rated and embraced brute force plus a new 4" travel Air Hammer from HF....Success!!! Just backed off the forward torque rod...

Well Done Brutacus!!! You've made way more progress than I have. I'm still struggling (and I mean Struggling) to get the tapered rod ends to separate from the mounts. What method did you use to free the rod ends behind the spring pack? Funny thing is I was able to remove all 12 cotter pins...

I bought 12 from Erik's Military and Industrial Supply. Got the cotter pins off, Now struggling to get the old ends separated from the truck... arg... Athough, the Proto Tools offset 2 1/4" strike wrench is the bomb!

Very interested in how these ball-joint style torque rod ends manage axle wheel hop. The rubber bushings appear to provide some active damping. Do the ball joint style provide some type of damping? My M923A2 exhibits extreme axle hop while hill climbing and subtle wheel hop on highway above...