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003A DC Regulator/Rectifier

m38inmaine

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Is any one making the 24v battery charging regulator after market or are just originals available? The last one I bought was from Erik's and he shows out of stock.

Thanks
 

Triple Jim

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I make them (see my signature). Alternatively, you could plug a 24v battery charger into the convenience outlet or wire it permanently.
 

vmccutcheon

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McDonough GA
I just bought two mep-003a's on a trailer as a power plant. Inspection said they had to jump them off-one stayed running fine and the other stalled. Just got them home and immediately replaced all four batteries to new. Hooked them up properly and there's no power to the panel lights or the switches????? Am I missing something? I really appreciate all input for I'm new to owning gens like this. THANKS
 

Isaac-1

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SW, Louisiana
There are 2 push pull breakers on the front panel, one is DC one is AC. Sometimes when these units sit in storage the contacts get dirty in the breakers and you have to cycle them a few times to get good contact. The DC breaker is the one that supplies DC to the panel lights, start relay, etc.
 

m38inmaine

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OK so I replaced the regulator with the new one and still not charging. I re tested the voltages and here is what I have.


23.5 VDC @ the red terminal(battery voltage)
47 VAC @ the two stator wires, generator running wires free and not hooked to terminal block
23 VAC @ terminal block, connected to regulator generator running, for some reason the voltage drops when hooked up to the block/regulator.
No led lit on regulator
Still 23.5 VDC at red wire running
Unhooked the capacitor at the red wire/terminal block in case that was shorted, no change.
Checked fuse ok, checked fuse with multimeter, ok even bypassed fuse assy and tied red/white at top of regulator and still no led or charging. looking for some help/advice this unit is supplying the off grid house and is important.

Thanks
 

Triple Jim

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Location
North Carolina
Both the original and the replacement regulators are shunt regulators. Because of the way a shunt regulator works, it's normal for the AC to drop when connected to the regulator. It's possible that the regulator is putting out charging current, but the battery is very discharged and hasn't had time for the voltage to come up. Can you put a meter in the regulator output and measure the current? You could do this by removing the fuse and using the ammeter to connect the two fuse terminals.
 

Triple Jim

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Location
North Carolina
The LED should start to come on when the battery voltage is getting near 28.4 or so, depending on temperature. It is intended to show that the battery is nearing full charge, and the regulator is reducing the output of the alternator. That is, it's not allowing full alternator current to get to the battery.
 
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m38inmaine

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Maine USA
Sorry for the delay, the unit is charging @ 4.6 amps. The problem was that my Fluke 177 is not working on the frequency and amp settings. I had to borrow another meter, thought it was strange, never thought my Fluke would let me down. So all should be well with the gen set charging, thanks for a great product and the quick replies.
 

Triple Jim

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Location
North Carolina
No problem about the delay, thanks for posting the charge current. I'd expect up to about 7 amps if the battery is really low, but if it's not so low, or if it's getting old and doesn't like taking a charge, the 4.6A may be in the ballpark. Also, any dirty connections between the regulator and the battery will limit the charge current to some extent.

Have you run it long enough to get up to something over 28V, where the yellow LED should start to flicker?
 

m38inmaine

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Maine USA
I did notice the led on when I had the two leads off to test the amps, as soon as I connected the leads it went out so it seems to be working fine. The problem is that it has 4 large 6v golf cart batteries on it, they have a lot of capacity so it's going to take a while for them to charge.
 
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