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1009 intro/build from Mn

JPx187

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Minnesota
Seems like this is a good a place as any to start my intro and build log.

Skip to the bottom for a tl;dr

I've long considered the k5 to be the best candidate for a mud truck and I've always wanted one. Recently, however, I began shopping for a replacement daily for work. I drive an average 50k miles a year for work; I'm sort of a traveling mechanic for foodservice equipment. For the last two years, I've been in a buick I hate. It gets decent mileage but it doesn't have nearly the room I need for me (at 6'5") or the equipment I work on, should I need to repair something at our shop.
Suffice it to say I did a lot of research and for a full size truck that will have the miles piled on, an m1009 had the lowest cost of ownership. Mostly because when it gets retired from the job, it'll double as a mud truck.
When I was looking at blazers as strictly mud trucks, I was looking at '08 axles, hummer 37's, a 465, and a 205-203 doubler. Now that I've got one (and spent a few hours at 90 got me 13mpg) I'm realizing that the 3.08's are kind of important for my mileage, and I should reconsider my transmission choice as well (gearing/tire suggestions welcome!)
So, on to my first mv purchase: set on a military blazer for diesel mileage I spoke with some people that are friends with my parents who know about these sort of things, and I learned that they don't come up for auction anymore. I even heard there was a publication that claimed the us military was cucv free (I'd like to see that if anyone knows about it or knows otherwise). So I scoured Craigslist for weeks. I was on search tempest and everything else, and they all came up around 3-4000 except for the occasional $6500 ad claiming they were impossible to find anymore. The few I found for around $2000 didn't have pictures or there was some major problem that would limit it's driveability. I was looking for a daily that didn't need much work right off the bat so I knew I needed to up my budget. Luckily, I filed my taxes early
Maybe that was an overshare but whatever, it's all typed now...
I finally found one on the Seattle Craigslist which specifically stated
"Drives good. A lil slop in stearing but i dont mind it.*
Runs tits. could drive this things around the country like nothing.*"
Perfect, that's exactly what I'm about to do
After some back and forth, the owner graciously held the blazer (for 2 weeks!) for my impending flight. I offered full asking price, sight unseen, given it looked in real life as it did in the pictures. I don't think I was ever as excited as I was the morning we (I took my gf with) left for the flight. We had to leave the house by 330am, but I was up by 2. We boarded the plane with no baggage, just money and underwear in our pockets to save worry and ticket hike. Thankfully, I have a cousin that lives in the area and he picked us up from the airport. It looked good, better than any k5 I'd seen at home. The batteries didn't work right because the terminals were shot and the negative post on the front battery was loose, and I talked down the price a little for that. The drivers window was out, steering sloppy, no rear window crank, and the gp board didn't work, but that was disclosed in the ad. There is also a starter button installed, and the key is the round door key but it works and hopefully that's the extent of electrical work. The heater fan works, but there is very little heat. I suspect the controls or the vent thing. It doesnt shift into 3rd until 45 either, i suspect a vacuum line because it works great otherwise. There wasn't a title or an sf97, but there was the original invoice from gl, and a Washington bill of sale... All in all, it was better than my gf's lifted grand Cherokee and I was happy to leave with it. Before I got back to my cousins for the night, I bought a spare battery and fixed the terminals in the parking lot of oriellys with courtesy tools.
newguy.jpg
I decided to spent the night before the 1700 mile journey home with an unfamiliar truck.

I still couldn't sleep, so I got up at about 7 and went to start my new '09 and make sure the coolant was full and in the heater core. I decided I'd call it "Rod" (ask me about that later). After I jumper'd the gp relay I discovered I lost the key already. After five minutes in the house I found the key on the passenger seat. Put it in, crank it over and... nothing. I figured I must've fried the glow plugs so I Googled it. Plug the exhaust? Yeah, not with duals. So I walk to the nearest gas station and get a can of ether. Not the way I wanted to start my relationship with Rod. But it started, and the journey began. This was Sunday morning, and we only had presidents day (Monday) off so this wasn't going to be leisurely. Not that I can sleep in a car anyway...
Somehow the 25 hour mapped route turned into 36 with an easy traffic stop and another that threatened a k9 search because it looked like we were muling drugs, a rubber wheel well thing that came loose in the mountains, only 6 fuel stops, lots of food, and not very many pictures. Oh and I should've greased the u joints before I left but I didn't so now I have to replace those.

It was only when I got home that I found out gl doesn't send out the sf97 anymore. According to the lady I spoke with, they haven't for nearly 2 years. So I gathered all the missing title documentation for mn (statement of facts, application to title a vehicle, and 5 pictures) and just submitted it this morning. I'm driving home now with a license plate on my passenger seat!


Tl;dr I bought an '09 1700 miles away and shared every excruciating detail. Now I need to fix my glow plugs, drivers window, heat, and u-joints.

//cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58b036f2d0c1b/20170223_174854.jpg?
 
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JPx187

New member
24
6
3
Location
Minnesota
That's weird, I tried posting this three times last night. I finally gave up and made a test thread this morning as well. Oh well, here are some more pictures anyway


I went and replaced all the bulbs last night, but the left rear still doesn't blink or brake light. Running lights work fine so I'm guessing wire. Ordered a nice fluke so I'm waiting on that to show up to voltage on the blinkers and the glow plug issue. Still not 100% on how to fix the hvac though...
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
Now that I've got one (and spent a few hours at 90 got me 13mpg) I'm realizing that the 3.08's are kind of important for my mileage, and I should reconsider my transmission choice as well (gearing/tire suggestions welcome!)​


My experience with gearing started with installing 35s on the already doggy 6.2 with 3.08s, but at least they allowed me to go down the freeways with relative ease. Up hills was a different matter. Long story short, with a Banks turbo, a built 700R4, and 4.10 gears (in 3/4-ton axles), life was very good. Your results may vary.






 

JPx187

New member
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3
Location
Minnesota
Thanks, the tallest gearing I've ever heard of in a d60 or 14bff is 4.10... in fact, I've got a d80 in my one ton with 4.10's. Anyway, I'm pretty well set on a manual. Maybe I should go with the newer nv3500/4500? I once read there's an older 4 speed with od but I don't remember the model.

I'm also very curious about a turbo. Wouldn't you have to advance the injection pump timing in order to compensate for the additional compression? Or is not doing that how you get the additional mileage?

This looks mint, I'd like to do something like that with a snorkel.
 

Tinstar

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Sounds like your off to a good start.
Truck looks good.

All the issues your having have been covered before so don't sweat it.
Usually a search will bring up the threads with the particular info.
Dont forget to download the TMs and read up on the CUCVs sticky threads.

What were the reasons given for the traffic stops?
 

JPx187

New member
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Minnesota
No plates! Apparently I was supposed to get a temporary paper from Washington taped in the window. Oh well.
I've been reading tons but there's just so much information and I have a hard time absorbing anything not immediately pertinent lol
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
Thanks, the tallest gearing I've ever heard of in a d60 or 14bff is 4.10... in fact, I've got a d80 in my one ton with 4.10's. Anyway, I'm pretty well set on a manual. Maybe I should go with the newer nv3500/4500? I once read there's an older 4 speed with od but I don't remember the model.

I'm also very curious about a turbo. Wouldn't you have to advance the injection pump timing in order to compensate for the additional compression? Or is not doing that how you get the additional mileage?
My mistake, I thought you had the stock 10-bolt axles. Either way, Dana 60s, 70s and 80s can be had with much taller gears than 4.10s.
There's a small outfit that sells new and reman NV4500s, frequently on sale, which I can dig up the name of if you wish.
My Banks turbo was installed 17 years ago, when you could still buy them at Banks, and while the pump was readjusted (I even remember how), I don't recall how much.
Driven sanely, my 700R4/4.10 combo would get 20 mpg, which meant that I usually got 15 to 17 mpg. About 2,000 rpm at 70 mph seemed perfect.
 

Tinstar

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It all takes time to absorb for sure.
I read about CUCVs/5 tons everyday. Still learning myself.

Yea, no tags will guarantee a stop.
The K9 sounds like a bit much, but I wasn't there.
 

JPx187

New member
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Location
Minnesota
It all takes time to absorb for sure.
I read about CUCVs/5 tons everyday. Still learning myself.

Yea, no tags will guarantee a stop.
The K9 sounds like a bit much, but I wasn't there.
I flew across country with no baggage to meet up with my "cousin" in a state where recreational marijuana was recently legalized and buy a vehicle I've never seen for not much money then drive it back ... I thought well when you put it that way I'd be suspicious too, but thankfully the military vehicles don't have any interior panels to hide anything in.

Flu, no, you're correct. The '09 has the 10b's but if you look carefully in the first picture you'll see an '89 1 ton Chevy (tbi 454/465) to the right with a Comanche parked in front of it and the gf's lifted grand Cherokee on the left. A purposeful window into my life and driveway.
 

JPx187

New member
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6
3
Location
Minnesota
I'm up near Duluth, but I got an uncle in Fridley!

Changed my air filter today, it was worse than I thought... changed the wellman 070's that were in it for ac60g's as well. Started after 30 seconds or so in ~15° above. Not the greatest, but cranking was a little slow and I didn't have to use ether so I'm happy.
Does anybody know where this is supposed to go?
 

Jeeperjoe

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Ramsey, MN
Welcome, we have a get together coming up in June in lindstrom mn overnight camP some trail riding look it up in the upcoming events section
 

JPx187

New member
24
6
3
Location
Minnesota
Did the rear/rear u joint yesterday and added a gp pushbutton. One day I'll get around to diagnosing the gp board but I'll likely leave the button in as a failsafe.

At this point, it is officially my daily driver. First day isn't going well. Sprung a coolant leak on the heater hose right at the thermostat lead. Cut it back an inch, it's good but coolant all under the hood. 20 minutes later it felt like I dropped the driver front wheel bearing out on the freeway and just about put me in the ditch. Found the passenger hub locked while inspecting damage. I'm sure it's unrelated but I guess I can't trust any passenger to help me when I get off the trail. Disappointing.
Also got tires. There was only one Goodyear at on it before, and 3 Goodyear a/ts. I wasn't impressed with their performance. These are 32x11.50r15 . I was strongly considering new 33x10.5's but these were less than half the price and I could sell the wheels.
 

JPx187

New member
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Location
Minnesota
Things haven't been going well with the wheel bearing. P.o. claimed to have done the wheel bearings already and I don't doubt it. The spindle nuts were barely hand tight, the tit was in backwards and sheared off, the seals failed, and the whole thing was packed with sand instead of grease. Inner race wouldn't come off the spindle with heat, relief cuts, grinding, etc so I just replaced the whole thing.

Decided to do differential fluid service as well but it was so cold in my garage the 80/90 wouldn't pour. Another hour or so it'll be driving again. Also noticed a nice spot of coolant leaking but by the time I got the hood open, it stopped . It truly is a labor of love.

Oh yeah, bit of good news. Sourced an nv4500 from a kid who doesn't know what he has for $300 pulled.

A little math: Current average=17 goal mileage=20 . Average yearly miles=50k Est. average fuel cost 2.50/gal . $2.50/gal * 50000mi/yr = $125000mi/gal yr * 1gal/17mi= $7352.94/yr . $125000mi/gal yr * 1gal/20mi= $6250/yr . $7352.94-$6250= $1102.94 saved/year
I think it'll be worth it
 

Jeeperjoe

Member
242
4
18
Location
Ramsey, MN
Things haven't been going well with the wheel bearing. P.o. claimed to have done the wheel bearings already and I don't doubt it. The spindle nuts were barely hand tight, the tit was in backwards and sheared off, the seals failed, and the whole thing was packed with sand instead of grease. Inner race wouldn't come off the spindle with heat, relief cuts, grinding, etc so I just replaced the whole thing.

Decided to do differential fluid service as well but it was so cold in my garage the 80/90 wouldn't pour. Another hour or so it'll be driving again. Also noticed a nice spot of coolant leaking but by the time I got the hood open, it stopped . It truly is a labor of love.

Oh yeah, bit of good news. Sourced an nv4500 from a kid who doesn't know what he has for $300 pulled.

A little math: Current average=17 goal mileage=20 . Average yearly miles=50k Est. average fuel cost 2.50/gal . $2.50/gal * 50000mi/yr = $125000mi/gal yr * 1gal/17mi= $7352.94/yr . $125000mi/gal yr * 1gal/20mi= $6250/yr . $7352.94-$6250= $1102.94 saved/year
I think it'll be worth it
Wow the price on that NV4500 has got me jealous is that the GM or dodge version?
 
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