I picked up a 2010 HMMWV 1097A2 the week of Thanksgiving. I have the title back and temp tags for it and I've done a number of small projects so far. Since I'm in PA, I am trying to get it ready for inspection.
The good......
1. All lights & blinkers are working
2. Supplemental ground harness from Kascar is installed
3. Engine oil and filter changed
4. Geared hubs have new oil
5. Fiberglass hood repair complete
6. Missing windshield and gasket installed
7. Missing wiper motor installed and wiper linkage reconnected with new bushings + new wiper blades & the wiper operate correctly
8. Rear camber shims removed to correct camber angle
9. Reverse light will be installed once the switch arrives
10. Mirrors on the way
The great....
I drove it on our farm and I love it. It seems to shift and brake well. Note, it was warm out when I have started and driven it
The problems.... and where I could use some advice.
I have read a lot of posts and watched videos on the start box issues, etc but I may be missing something so I am making this post.
I have a KDS CR-2695 Engine Electrical Start System (Yellow Label) and Temp Sending Unit with a yellow band
The Wait light turns quickly on and back off right away when the start switch is turned to Run. You do hear a solenoid at this time. If you let it crank for 5 seconds or so and repeat a second time, it will start and run fine if it's fairly warm out. It doesn't if it's cold outside. I started wondering if anything was happening at the glow plug so I watched more videos and started debugging. I checked the voltage on a couple of the glow plug wires when the start switch is turned to Run. I don't see any voltage at the glow plug wire - I would expect the full 24V at least for a moment. I unplugged the temp sending unit and turned the switch to Run and again see no voltage at the glow plug wire. I also have not seen the heat or the heat fan work yet. I have Ohm tested the glow plugs while installed and I get a 2 ohms at each glow plug. It's my understanding that shows they are good (sort of a question there as well).
How can I rule out a bad EESS or prove that if I can get 24V to the glow plugs that it will start properly? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The good......
1. All lights & blinkers are working
2. Supplemental ground harness from Kascar is installed
3. Engine oil and filter changed
4. Geared hubs have new oil
5. Fiberglass hood repair complete
6. Missing windshield and gasket installed
7. Missing wiper motor installed and wiper linkage reconnected with new bushings + new wiper blades & the wiper operate correctly
8. Rear camber shims removed to correct camber angle
9. Reverse light will be installed once the switch arrives
10. Mirrors on the way
The great....
I drove it on our farm and I love it. It seems to shift and brake well. Note, it was warm out when I have started and driven it
The problems.... and where I could use some advice.
I have read a lot of posts and watched videos on the start box issues, etc but I may be missing something so I am making this post.
I have a KDS CR-2695 Engine Electrical Start System (Yellow Label) and Temp Sending Unit with a yellow band
The Wait light turns quickly on and back off right away when the start switch is turned to Run. You do hear a solenoid at this time. If you let it crank for 5 seconds or so and repeat a second time, it will start and run fine if it's fairly warm out. It doesn't if it's cold outside. I started wondering if anything was happening at the glow plug so I watched more videos and started debugging. I checked the voltage on a couple of the glow plug wires when the start switch is turned to Run. I don't see any voltage at the glow plug wire - I would expect the full 24V at least for a moment. I unplugged the temp sending unit and turned the switch to Run and again see no voltage at the glow plug wire. I also have not seen the heat or the heat fan work yet. I have Ohm tested the glow plugs while installed and I get a 2 ohms at each glow plug. It's my understanding that shows they are good (sort of a question there as well).
How can I rule out a bad EESS or prove that if I can get 24V to the glow plugs that it will start properly? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
