1954 M37 Project Any Sugestions Appreciated!

[66Reo6X6]

Greetings from North Dakota!
Got a call last night that led to todays project. Seems a local individual has a 1954 M37 that needs some attention. Well long story short version is that they asked a local shop to work on it but where told they didn't have time but the mechanic gave them my phone # and said to check with me.
Yes I have known about this truck for many years and have tried repeatedly to purchase it to no avail so being asked to work on it is kinda the next best thing so to speak.
Used my M35A2 for the recovery this afternoon and worked on it for about three hours to get it running. Have to replace part of the fuel line and rebuild the wheel
cylinders as well as a whole list of misc things.
Any help with locating brake cylinder kits, oil filter number and just general tips would be greatly appreciated. I only have about a week to get it back on the road for them which doesn't give me enough time to find the proper TM for it so if any one could email me the brake repair section it sure would simplify things.
Thanks in advance for your input on this project!

 

[pwrwagonfire]

The TM should be up for free on this site under resources....that'd probably be the quickest way to get it.

The oil filter I BELIEVE is NAPA 1100.

If you are going to be doing wheel cylinders, your gonna need to locate a spindle wrench- 8 sided socket that can fit in and take out the inner/outter bearing adjustment nuts. This could be a big hold up on the repair work...trust me I experienced it! You should check out the steering knuckles and bearings when your in the front axle replacing wheel cylinders, both things are a long way in, so better to do them at once.

All new seals (inner axle, inner hub) would be a good idea at the same time as well, that way you don't have to open them up again!

There are 3 recessed screws that hold the brake drum to the hub assembly....and they are a PIA to get out....make sure to have plently of liquid wrench, and an impact driver ready


Also to help out, the rear axle has two oil seals per side (outter, and inner hub)....requires two flange gaskets as well.


Thats pretty much everything off the top of my head which I would personaly have wanted to know ahead of time!

any other questions, feel free to ask I'd be happy to help to the best of my ability

Contact M-series re-build, the owner's name is charles talbert. He sold me a new master cylinder, wheel cylinders at a good price. Also, memphis equipment has always been great to work with for parts (in my experience).

 

[98taco3]

yup napa 1100. its what i used in mine. If you get ahold of John bizal at Midwest Military he can help with brake parts. A master cylinder rebuild kit is (napa) united brake parts part #1. I believe that you can get wheel cylinders from napa, just have to spec them out. If it was myself working on it, replace the whole wheel cylinders, dont just rebuild them. If you really need it ill can find my TM and scan in some pages for you on the brake adjustment procedures. PM me with your email addy if you decide you need it.

 

[Capt.Marion]

Step 1: Memorize this website 1953 Dodge M37. Even though CGarbee's is Cummins-repowered, the knowledge present on that site extends WELL into stock M37s, and is beautifully organized.

Step 2: Print this parts cross-reference from the above site

Step 3: Add AB Linn (704-637-9076, out of Salisbury, NC) to your phone book and John Bizal's Website (Midwest Military) to your bookmarks.

Step 4: Join the boards at g741.org

Step 5: post questions and pictures here and get answers

 

[Capt.Marion]

I'm not 100% sure on how to post the brake repair sections. If anything I'd just buy new wheel cylinders. They're (or were) $22 from AB Linn. Made in USA. There are differences between some of the wheel cylinders, so just mark the box in a easy to read format so you know which is which.

Remove the tire, a few flathead screws to remove the drum, and then you just need simple tools and a brake spring compressor to pull the shoes to clean them up and unbolt and remove the wheel cylinder.

You can get plenty of braking action through simple adjusting- when you've got it reassembled, put the tire back on, but leave it jacked up so the tire's off the ground. Make sure no brakes are on, that it's out of 4 wheel drive, and that it's in neutral. Spin the tire and adjust the brake adjusters until the brakes drag just a bit without touching the brake pedal, and then back them off just a hair until they don't drag anymore. Repeat for all wheels.

Also, take off the flex brake hoses to make sure that they aren't swollen shut.



If you want to verify that it runs without ****ing about immediately with the fuel tank and fuel lines, just run a line from a regular gerry can or gas can to the "IN" side of the fuel pump and let it run from that gas can. That also verifies that your fuel pump works. There should be an easy place to disconnect the metal fuel line from the shielded line that runs back the rest of the way to the tank. If I'm not mistaken it's at the bottom of the engine compartment towards the front of the engine.


Best of luck!

 

[66Reo6X6]

Manny thanks for the help! Here is a rundown of how the project went.
First thing I did was to drain the fuel tank and blow out or at least try to blow out the fuel lines. The line was plugged so I used a six gallon boat fuel tank to initially get it going. (Like to use boat gas tanks with primer bulbs) Installed new batteries, primed it and had it running in short order.
Found the fuel line was plugged in the fuel tank and wasn't too hard to get opened up.
Also installed new spark plugs and fuel filters.
As to the brakes only had to add fresh fluid and bleed them to get them working again thankfully.
Have now returned it to its owner for now. Hope to buy it from them sooner than later.
Thanks again!

 

[Capt.Marion]

Awesome. Glad to hear it went well.

 

[66Reo6X6]

Thanks again! Any idea what a fair offer would be for this M37. Seems to be fairly solid but I would rebuild the brakes and replace all four tires if I did acquire it. As is it is good for lea surly jaunts around town or close to home.

 

[Oilleaker1]

I was shocked to see the original front bumper unit markings------rare! Very nice looking find. I've built two M37's and the parts references are spot on. Price on buying depend on : title, running condition, and all the stuff missing. 500.00 - 12000.00. You have to figure what you want to end up with. After that, the M37 is tough, slow, and just a real buddy. I cherish mine and treat them with a thought to what they were designed and built for. They are a Big Jeep! 6 cylinders always sound cool too! John