1985 CUCV engine help

[48cj2a]

Been lurking a little while and made a few posts to other threads but thought it was time to start my own thread.

Purchased 1985 CUCV M1009 (Blazer) with 48K from my local Police Dept. They procured it from Ft Carson, CO so there is very little rust and it is in excellant condtion. They swapped the 6.2 with another they already had that was hydrolocked and then rattled, so claimed it ran when swapped.

I've been searching for a donor vehicle (Subruban, Blazer or Pickup) as I don't know what if anything is missing.

I've was hoping for a Siverado packaged truck for A/C, Cruise, P/L, P/W and possibly exceptable door panels and seats w/console.

Everything in Cental Illinois within 150mile range has been way overpriced so the look continues.

Pulled the 6.2 yesterday and got it on an engine stand. My concerns were correct as a few wires were cut on the engine swap.

I will pull off oil pan first, what else should I look at or look for from the hydrolock diagnosis?

http://www.48cj2a.com/images/cucv/cucv.jpg

 

[OL AG '89]

If the engine went through a Hydro lock, you will find thing bent, or broken. First to bend are pushrods, then valve stems and finally the rods, before pushing through the bottom of the pistons...... maybe find a broken crank, but that would be extreme, although not unheard of.
Did you first take heads off before removing motor from truck? That would of been first indication when you see the rust and corrosion in cylinder, or the bent or broken pushrods before getting head off

 

[48cj2a]

The detective I delt with said the engine ran but was rattling real bad.

I did not pull the heads yet...

There were only 2 tranny and the lower motor mount bolts holding it and nothing wiring wise so I thought for no more trouble than it is to pull plus give me a chance to inspect all the wiring I should just go a head and pull it and investigate it on the stand.

Had it out in less than 30 min.

The motor had only 48K on it so another reason to inspect it in the event it could be repaired reasonable.

 

[hre513]

How'd it get hydro locked? post pics when you get it apart?

 

[48cj2a]

Don't know for sure but my guess would be night ops near a local boat launch area at the river. They have a thermal vision system in the service CUCV they are using.

 

[ralbelt]

My 6.2 would hydrolock after shutting it down after a run. She was also smoking out the left ex pipe. Luckly nothing got bent. I replaced the left head due to a severe crack. I had the right head checked and resurfaced and the valves recut and seated as needed. Ex manifolds resurfaced, new fuel pump and a new open plane intake manifold, injectors rebuilt.
I did all this while It was in the truck and I felt that I should have pulled the engine as it was winter and about 30 degrees outside when I was working on it.

 

[48cj2a]

I tore the engine down a few weeks ago. Got to the point where I was ready to remove the RH head.

Third pushrod from the front on the # 4 cyl was very rusty.

Got the head off and was very surprised to find #6 and # 8 cyls very rusty and #6 definitely had something in it long enough to beat the heck out of the piston. Even had some indication that something might have had threads on it.

Is this economical enough to pursue or should I look for a replacement motor? Can I assume cracked head with the rust?

Where are the common areas that crack on the heads and can they be seen fairly easy
without spending funds for a bath and magnaflux?

http://48cj2a.com/images/cucv/6.2/62damage.JPG

In the mean time I bought an 87 CCLB with a replacement Target 6.2 that sounds pretty good.

I plan to pull this motor and attend to any details needed and replace the CUCV 6.2.

Since this is a complete Civy 6.2 my plan was to unbolt and use the stock civy engine harness in the CUCV and eliminate some of the problem electrical issues the CUCV is known for.

Does anyone know of any issues or should this be plug and play?

Also the 87 has a gauge cluster so would like to also swap this into the CUCV and do away with the GEN 1 and 2 lamps as well as the over sized 4wd lamp and take advantage of the guages. Is this also a plug n play or do I need to swap interior (dash) wire harnesses as well.

Any advantages to any of the CUCV engine parts like intake, and other bolts ons that I should swap during the installation?

Also plan to take advantage of the civy battery brackets.

Anything else I may be missing or beneficial??

Before spending any foolish money is there any value in getting a good used piston for this engine?

Where do you look for prone cracking in the heads to determine if keepers or scrap.

Whats a core 48K miles IP worth?

Whats a core 48K 24v starter worth?

Whats the Gen 1 and 2 with 48K miles worth?

Like to recoupe something from these parts if possible.

 

[wallew]

The CUCV engine is a stronger variant than the Civy one. I KNOW. I popped a rear main seal out of my 1988 Suburban 6.2L - and it was a civy. A civy replacement back in the late 1990's was $6k. Plus install.

I can name several places that would sell you a running CUCV 6.2L 'J' code engine (EMISSIONS EXEMPT - you lose that with a civvy engine) for $500 - $600.

 

[48cj2a]

I'll have to check but this is out of a 87 CCLB 3/4 ton but since its a Target not sure what model the engine actually is.

Should I look at block castings or what other engine markings?

 

[wallew]

This would give you something to research and what they say about using the 'J code' engine...

GM 6.2L Buildup - Diesel Power Magazine

Hope it helps

 

[mf5129]

buy a engine from gl.they make a good core.at a reasonable price

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

There was a fellow on epay or maybe it was the Nashville craigslist who was selling HMMWV takeout engines for $550 and he guaranteed them. You just have to swap out a few 24V items on the injector with your CUCV parts and you can drop it right in.

 

[48cj2a]

Thanks Fellas - I know about the market flooding of Humv take outs but I just bought a running 6.2 and plan to swap it in.

Just wanted to know the plug n play factors.

 

[48cj2a]

Turns out my Civy 6.2 is a J code engine. Did some checking over on the DieselPage.com and there is no difference between a Civy and Mil J code 6.2 except some bolt ons and plumbing.

 

[rnd-motorsports]

Yes just read posts and you can get the j code in a cicv the only dif is emisions the j code did not have them the c code did also the J code injection pump is turned up a bit over the c code engine as far as the dash you will have to change out the wire harness that part will be a pain I just add mechanical gauges more reliable for me!

 

[48cj2a]

Thanks for confirming the cluster wiring question.

I'm already planning factory A/C conversion, so wiring harness swap is in the plans now.

 

[48cj2a]

Any reason I can't fire this up with the civilian engine harness connected to the CUCV dash harness?

I would like to get this running and know its right before the adventure in swapping the dash harness.

I pulled the 87 Crew Cab harness yesterday and all went well except the fight with the column connections but I did get it out.

To my delight the Crew Cab has a brown dash pad thats about 95% perfect so thats going to get swapped in when i do the harness swap.

Lastly what is the connection on the firewall power terminals that connects the Pos and Neg?

 

[rnd-motorsports]

the power to the engine should be the same so it should start as for the plug you ask about not sure what you you talking about can you post a pic? If your talking about the two power strips on the pas side they are just that. power connections for the mil spec you can remove them just put pos cable to the starter and all conections to the connector will have to go to the starter as well just as a civi is. or to the battery post , As for the grounds just put on the block or frame if you put on frame make sure you have a good ground to the block and the cab or body of truck