I've had a Dodge 360 V8 in the 6X6 for over 15 years and have tried to keep it 24 volt throughout except the starter which would have to remain 12 volt. I finally ran out of patience with the various dropping resistors and relays to start the truck on 12 and run it and various accessories on 24. I found gauges that resemble the originals to a good degree and began the process. The one problem I knew I would have is that there is twice the current flow to each load on 12 as opposed to 24. My main concern was the lighting system. 24 volt systems can run just fine on 14 gauge wiring but when you use 12 headlights and various marker and signal lights, the current can go over the capacity of 14 gauge wiring. I set the system up keeping the original harness in place and making adapters to go on the various ends to whatever gauges and accessories such as engine driven air compressor, left and right cab heaters, rear back up lights, aux fuel pump, and system ower switches. I used two ice cube power relays to power the accessories and another to power the engine and gauges. The master power switch on the dash powers these relays only and and has no supply voltage to the truck through them. Each Ice cube has its power directly from the charging system. Each accessory is fused and there are two safety switches in circuit also. These are 3 position switches and one controls the ignition, charging, and gauges. In one position the truck will start and run just fine, one of the other positions and the truck will do nothing. The remaining position will honk the horns when you switch on the master power switch. The other side of the master dash panel switch enables the relay for accessories and also another 3 position switch. same thing, switch in the master with the switch in the wrong position and the horns blare.
I solved the high current lighting problem by going to LED bulbs front and rear. I had to use a flasher designed for use on LED's and found two different turn signal switches common in military vehicles. The on signal head flashes the pilot light 180 out with the marker lights. This will keep the LED circuit from working. There are two wires for this pilot, and the one that is on the ground isolated spring must be grounded. The other flasher has the bulb outer case grounded and will work without mods. The current will drop drom just over two amps per bulb to just under 100 milliamps per bulb. I placed a 25 resetable circuit breaker in series with the light control box to prevent short circuiting and protect everything.
I have t paint the dash and gauge outer rings to match, but everything is working great. I installed a sold state regulatore and a solid state ignition on the 360.
Regards,
M376X6
I solved the high current lighting problem by going to LED bulbs front and rear. I had to use a flasher designed for use on LED's and found two different turn signal switches common in military vehicles. The on signal head flashes the pilot light 180 out with the marker lights. This will keep the LED circuit from working. There are two wires for this pilot, and the one that is on the ground isolated spring must be grounded. The other flasher has the bulb outer case grounded and will work without mods. The current will drop drom just over two amps per bulb to just under 100 milliamps per bulb. I placed a 25 resetable circuit breaker in series with the light control box to prevent short circuiting and protect everything.
I have t paint the dash and gauge outer rings to match, but everything is working great. I installed a sold state regulatore and a solid state ignition on the 360.
Regards,
M376X6
