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Purist read no further, and hateful commenter about inability to operate a 3 lever light switch keep your comments to yourself, i did read the other post
I consider these switches unreliable, they fail like this one did at the most inopportune times, flashers power, button C melted into plastic while assisting another vehicle and caused my flasher to fail to operate.
Now for those that would like a build sheet on how to repair your 3 lever light switch and use any kind of switch, ie push pull, toggle, flip, push button, this is only a build with parts in the shop, a proof of concept so to say. I will open some older non working 3 levers later to verify that wire colors are the same, this one is dated 2010. Push/pull switches used are rated 6-32v
This setup is turn/horn/brake powered on all the time, markers on switch 1 and headlights on switch 2, headlights are powered thru markers so, no markers-no headlight. There are no black out service used in this set up, if BO is needed or wanted, then there are 2 other wires need to be powered on different switches. This was not difficult to disassemble as some other posts have suggested, I fully agree that there are no usable parts inside to repair as the 3 that i have taken apart so far have all melted the metal contacts into the mounting plastic. Only usable parts will be the case and the backing plate/cannon plug/wires assembly.
![IMG_2075[1].JPG IMG_2075[1].JPG](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/696/696031-17931be816a625675145ae4b2804c4e9.jpg)
Pin A white-power from brake light switch
pin B black/white-dash lights only on no bright or dim option
pin C purple-power to turn signal switch for brake light override-connect to orange pin K
pin d not used-BO drive
pin e not used-BO marker
pin F black is power 24v
pin H green-service drive markers
pin j yellow-horn power/turn signal power
pin k orange, power to brake light switch-connect to pin c purple
pin L not used-
pin m brown-headlights
![IMG_2080[1].JPG IMG_2080[1].JPG](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/696/696032-b88b6b540fb6d2094a616ccc5e320d2f.jpg)
switch 1
white, yellow, black together on power post of switch 1
green, black/white on load side of switch 1, also undescribed short wire from load side of sw 1 to power side of switch 2
switch 2
undescribed wire from load side sw1 to power side of sw 2
brown wire from load side sw 2
orange and purple need connected together, i just clipped back the purple short and soldered the orange into the pin of the purple
![IMG_2078[1].JPG IMG_2078[1].JPG](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/696/696033-b3b0db37e82b1b28372dc0bd2d4d4a4a.jpg)
![IMG_2079[1].JPG IMG_2079[1].JPG](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/696/696034-dc7687d7c755b86cd1f415eb8a172f32.jpg)
I consider these switches unreliable, they fail like this one did at the most inopportune times, flashers power, button C melted into plastic while assisting another vehicle and caused my flasher to fail to operate.
Now for those that would like a build sheet on how to repair your 3 lever light switch and use any kind of switch, ie push pull, toggle, flip, push button, this is only a build with parts in the shop, a proof of concept so to say. I will open some older non working 3 levers later to verify that wire colors are the same, this one is dated 2010. Push/pull switches used are rated 6-32v
This setup is turn/horn/brake powered on all the time, markers on switch 1 and headlights on switch 2, headlights are powered thru markers so, no markers-no headlight. There are no black out service used in this set up, if BO is needed or wanted, then there are 2 other wires need to be powered on different switches. This was not difficult to disassemble as some other posts have suggested, I fully agree that there are no usable parts inside to repair as the 3 that i have taken apart so far have all melted the metal contacts into the mounting plastic. Only usable parts will be the case and the backing plate/cannon plug/wires assembly.
![IMG_2075[1].JPG IMG_2075[1].JPG](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/696/696031-17931be816a625675145ae4b2804c4e9.jpg)
Pin A white-power from brake light switch
pin B black/white-dash lights only on no bright or dim option
pin C purple-power to turn signal switch for brake light override-connect to orange pin K
pin d not used-BO drive
pin e not used-BO marker
pin F black is power 24v
pin H green-service drive markers
pin j yellow-horn power/turn signal power
pin k orange, power to brake light switch-connect to pin c purple
pin L not used-
pin m brown-headlights
![IMG_2080[1].JPG IMG_2080[1].JPG](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/696/696032-b88b6b540fb6d2094a616ccc5e320d2f.jpg)
switch 1
white, yellow, black together on power post of switch 1
green, black/white on load side of switch 1, also undescribed short wire from load side of sw 1 to power side of switch 2
switch 2
undescribed wire from load side sw1 to power side of sw 2
brown wire from load side sw 2
orange and purple need connected together, i just clipped back the purple short and soldered the orange into the pin of the purple
![IMG_2078[1].JPG IMG_2078[1].JPG](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/696/696033-b3b0db37e82b1b28372dc0bd2d4d4a4a.jpg)
![IMG_2079[1].JPG IMG_2079[1].JPG](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/696/696034-dc7687d7c755b86cd1f415eb8a172f32.jpg)
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