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3116 Kitty Cat Tec tip of the Day

Floridianson

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Working on the M1088 3116 Kitty. Changed out the oil pan gasket twice. Not the pan gasket. Just power washed and it getting dark so I will get a new oil filter and start it up. Looks like it's coming from where my finger is pointing. Got to know when to dump them all right. Anyone seen a leak from the whole structure that is bolted to the block. Has to have oil running through it. Pain to get the whole alternator bracket off to. Good thing when I put the Trans. cooler bracket back on I also install the lower AC bracket. Got to keep on smiling cause it's better than crying.
When I got it I assumed it was just the oil pan gasket.
 

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73m819

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Yes, I picked up a 1078 from ATL., had a oil leak right there, had to pull almost everything to get to the gasket, it looked like when the gasket was installed there was something under it, got the gasket/gaskets and a bunch o-rings from Cat
 

Floridianson

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Great lots more work. Looks like the cooler runs all the way down the block.
OK half way .
 
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DCLund

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My 3116 was also leaking in the same place. I used an assortment of swivels and bent wrenches to tighten all the bolts. I got lucky and it hasn't leaked now for 2000 miles. Good luck.
 

Floridianson

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Yea this would be a good Tec tip of the day. If your oil cooler is not leaking double check all the bolts as seven of mine were loose.
Hate to say it be it was too late for me as the gasket is blown out. By checking your cooler bolts you might save yourself a lot of trouble.
 

Floridianson

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3116 Kitty Tec tip of the Day

OK moved thread so skip this post. Nothing tooo see so move on.aua
 
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Jakelc15

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They all leak there. Cat came out with an updated gasket set. I can't remember how many of those I have resealed. I think I have a spare oil cooler around here somewhere too
 

Floridianson

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Yep if you got 5 hours to blow don't worry about checking the cooler/filter housing bolts. Now to get the parts and put it back together. Can be done with most hand tools. I did have to grind down a long double box end 15-13 mm wrench to get to the inside rear exhaust manifold nut. The other three could get with a box 15mm. The five remote oil filter bolts do not need to be removed to get the first cover off.
Dang Dang Dong.
 

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tennmogger

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This would be a great time to put in a block heater. Yeah, I know, you don't need one in Flodida, but for anyone north of the Mason-Dixon line, you might keep that in mind :)
 

Floridianson

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I want this truck put in my Grave with me. Then I can look back at it and try not to make the same mistakes on the next go round.
 

coachgeo

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This is the lowest block drain I could find. Drained the radiator first then cleared the block before covers came off.
Is that another coolant plug to the left of that block drain and below that metal heat shield? With your taking things off and on recently.... which of those plugs would be easier to access you think with out having to pull off so many items to reach it. Curious question since considering doing a 110v coolant block heater?


update...... NEVER MIND lol. Looks like THIS POST and thread it sits in answers the question.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162457-block-heater&p=1951587&viewfull=1#post1951587
 
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Floridianson

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OK the Tec tips is on this thread.
I had some pilot studs I used on the oil pan install. So to make sure nothing moves on install of cooler I used the same thread pilots here. Don't know if it is in a TM but it is a Good idea. Tanks
 

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jbayer

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OK the Tec tips is on this thread.
I had some pilot studs I used on the oil pan install. So to make sure nothing moves on install of cooler I used the same thread pilots here. Don't know if it is in a TM but it is a Good idea. Tanks
I do this too in similar situations, definitely good idea. It helps too if you cut a screwdriver slot in the end, ease of install and removal if they get bound up.
 

Floridianson

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I only put two to three threads in never had a extraction problem. Tanks though. OK next up tip. This is the Turbo oil return, block to return tube fitting. Make sure the beveled edge of the tube hole is clean and check your tube hole bore. I just used some steel wool #4 and cleaned it then had to lightly use sharp edge blade too clean bevel of the paint. This will help on install of the return tube with the O ring on it.
 

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Floridianson

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Here are all the parts I used to do a good job.
Exhaust manifold, two Yellow O rings for block to oil cooler. One yellow O ring for turbo oil return pipe. Black O ring turbo return block fitting. Small black O ring is turbo oil feed line from manifold. One oil feed line top gasket turbo and one oilline return tube gasket turbo. Then there is the two large gaskets for the cooler to block and remote oil housing to cooler. The kit they sell does not have oil feed line small gasket on turbo or the large black return tube block fitting O ring. All the bolt holes are blind but I used blue blocker liquid thread sealer on all bolts. High Tac spray was used on both sides of the oil cooler gasket and just one side of the remote oil filter gasket. The new remote oil filter gasket has what looks like rubber imbedded on the outside face so no need for anything I feel. All bolts were taken to 25 foot pounds. Last thing bolt on the turbo return tube and tighten it down on turbo. You can also install the tube in the block fitting and bolt it down after install of turbo.
 

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sjohn116

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From start to finish, what would you estimate your total time to R&R this leak? Turbo comes off, did you remove the alternator? Thanks In advance. It looks like this is going to be my merry Xmas weekend present to myself.
 

Floridianson

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Yes alternator and myself I did it's bracket. I did it in the course of also having the turbo rebuilt so to add up the hours. Right tools all parts and nothing else then bet you could do it in four hours.
 
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