5 ton clutch replacement?

[OldskoolMech58]

I want to thank everyone on this forum for the information that is available. Nice to know other people like these trucks.

I wish this question would be about my 5 ton, but it isn't. A good friend of mine bought one from an auction. From what I have found on this forum it is a model 839 mid 80s dump truck.Cummins 250 diesel. Lettering indicates Maryland NG. Odometer reads @10k miles.

I am replacing the clutch for a friend. He thought the throw-out bearing was shot and it was. When I pulled the clutch today all 12 bolts looked to be new and none were torqued properly(Mostly over tightened, I suspect an air tool was used in place of a torque wrench).

Also, the long part of the hub was facing the engine and appeared to be rubbing on the pilot bearing. Both the hub and the face of the pilot bearing show heavy witness marks.

As I look at the clutch install page in the TM, the long part should face the transmission?

Any and all replies are greatly appreciated, I want to get this right the first time.

Jeff

 

[MyothersanM1]

The long portion of the hub of the clutch disc does face the transmission. 25-31 lb-ft. on those pressure plate bolts per the TM.

I replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot and throw-out bearing and had the fly wheel machined on my M818 when I replaced the rear main seal about two years ago.

 

[OldskoolMech58]

Thanks for the information. We finally wrapped this one up today. I had issues with weather and this truck being 38 miles from my shop. My friends drive way is 3/4 mile of "you have to have 4 wheel drive if it rains or snows". 6 trips later and we are finally done.
Indeed the fairly new clutch disc was in backwards. If you look closely at the clutch pictures the fingers on the clutch don't look right at all. They look strange because they have all bent over. New one on me.
Needless to say he was lucky to get the truck home and parked. We replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing with new parts. The throwout bearing was welded to shaft on linkage, we replaced that part also.
The rear main was not leaking and the flywheel looked great.
Once we had all the drive shafts back in place today the first check was to see if the clutch would hold and it did. Then we raised the dump to remove the support bars.
Now the truck goes into gear without grinding and the clutch free play is set at 2" per other posts on this forum. We were careful to torque all the bolts to specs per the TM. Used new steel lock nuts a Loctite on the drive shafts. I appreciate all help I was able to find on this forum. My Buddy was not having any luck finding any of the local truck shops to do this work. I could not have done it with this forum. I have attached pictures, they are not in chronological order. Thanks !

 

[MyothersanM1]

Glad you got it all wrapped up and all is right in the universe. That job is no walk in the park

Somebody really fouled that job up before you. After doing the job myself, I can't help, but not understand how one puts the clutch disc in 'bass-ackwards'. You should be able to see the error when the disc does not sit flush up against the flywheel...I da' know .

For those who may do this job later...
VVV Correct Install VVV....long hub toward rear


The center of the flywheel dish is too shallow to accommodate the long end of the hub.