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$92 shutterstat fan clutch actuator

Marc23760

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After several failed rebuilds and tons of research to not pay $250 for an Evans shutterstat for my m923a2, I found this company in Michigan whom is affiliated with fan clutch.com

i am not sure if you can post a vendor website here but here it is. I don't work or advocate for them, however, they sell a different NC shutterstat for $92 that performs the exact same function as the stock Evans shutterstat. You can also choose your temp.

I went for a 195 degree. It is a little longer than the stock one but fits just fine. I have attached a copy of my invoice (partial) so that you can grab the part number and contact info. The guys contact is Larry at X722


i wish I had done this first instead of draining my Coolant 5 times over and re testing the rebuilt stat just to find out it's still broken.

Hopefully this saves someone else the headache it gave me.
 
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Coffey1

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I changed mine to a temp sensor which sends 24 volts to a valve that open to send air to clutch.
It opens at 195 and closes after a 15 degree drop.
Works great.
 

Marc23760

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$92 is good but the $17 for shipping is a bit much. Could fit that in a small flat rate for a bit under $6.
I agree. However, this was the cheapest stat I could find that functioned and they didn't mail it usps. I knew I was over paying by $11 for shipping but saving $150 on the part ��
 

cbrTodd

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Has anyone else had trouble with the alternate shutterstats identified in this and other threads? As best I can tell, there are 2 options in the market, the original Evans unit that is supposed to be failure prone, and the Medallion brand ones that are available through various retailers (fanclutch.com, Ross Equipment, Oshkosh Equipment, etc.) for between $92 and $209. I purchased one from Ross Equipment, and it shipped directly to me from Medallion. The first one leaked coolant out the air bleed hole after I shut it down the first time. It was definitely coolant and not condensation inside the air system. I ordered a replacement, and it leaked air continuously out the bleed hole after the truck was shut down. It closed back up at some point near room temperature.

Both the leaky parts are now on their way back to Ross. I'm wondering what I should do for attempt #3. Am I the only one having trouble with these?
 

Swamp Donkey

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I'll have to look at the newer style I have at the house and see who made it. I was going to swap out my Evans for the newer style to try it out but I think I'll wait now for some feedback. I'd much rather deal with air leaks than coolant leaks.

I have rebuilt many of the Evans for a local guy, with most going past the year mark as of now, and none have had any other issues. The Evans on my truck had some grit in it when I first tore into it that had scarred some of the sealing surfaces. After multiple attempts I have it working most of the time. Every now and then it gets a mind of its own though. It doesn't leak but something hangs internally, occasionally. I can repair everybody else's things, but not my own. Go figure.

I figured I'd try the new style, but with the rally coming up, I think I'll stick with my reliable but sometimes cranky Evans. It always works...just sometimes more than it needs too, lol.
 

acme66

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Here is the video of what I did, the parts I had to purchase and the parts I *would* purchase if I did it again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AL62hTfIbM




My conversion has hundreds of miles on it now and works flawlessly without having to extend any hoses or change any of the wiring, not that you couldn't accomplish what I did in those ways as well. This is just how I did it, it worked very well, required few modification and was very inexpensive. A commenter also contributed the part number for the 195 unit rather than the 185 that I used. That information is in the video description or I have included it below. To be honest I did not notice a operational difference between my old 193/5 unit and the new 185 unit. I need to do this for a second truck so will be buying the 195 then and can post if there is a noticeable difference. That will be awhile however because of blown piston liners in that truck.



FROM THE VIDEO
"Read before starting. Fixing the shutter-stat (air fan clutch actuator) with a modern retrofit that costs less and is more available.

To start drain off 4-5 gallons of antifreeze out of the front passenger side radiator port. Remove the old sensor, I think it takes a 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, and 1 1/18 wrenches to do it all. Unscrew the hoses then remove the fittings from the old unit before removing it from the block.

I used a Medallion Control / Sensor / Switch 1047-35000-29
SHUTTERSTAT (NC-1/2-185 F)

Part number for the 195F - 1047-35000-31 (thanks Alexsha James)

Just search for the part number 1047-35000-29 and you can find it. I got mine from Ross Equipment Company and paid $81 for it with $10 shipping USPS. You will also need a brass 1/4 street 90, a 1/2 pipe union (coupling) and a short 1/2 nipple. All of that can be found at a parts or hardware store locally. If you can find them in brass it would look more professional than the galvanized ones I used. Both will work. Bring your shutter stat with you to make sure the probe fits in the 1/2 nipple but by definition it should just fine."


I hope this helps someone or encourages others to share how they handled the issue.

Ken
 
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Swamp Donkey

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I think this would be shorter than a coupling and nipple. It's a 1/2" male x 1/2" female adapter. It should be long enough to keep the probe from making contact while still keeping it in open coolant flow. I couldn't find one local so it should be here Tuesday. I'll compare when it gets here since I bought a brass coupling and nipple this evening.

Screenshot_2015-10-09-21-08-05.jpg
 

Swamp Donkey

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This is the new shutterstat with the adapter installed that I posted above, instead of a coupling and closed nipple. This should keep the capsule fully exposed but still be short enough so it's not touching anything. I'll install it this weekend. I included the older Evans for comparison.

20151017_152732.jpg
 
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Castle Bravo

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With the vent being removable on that Medallion shutterstat, can you move the swap the vent and input positions to change it from a normally closed to a normally open valve?
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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The install went smoothly and the adapter above worked perfectly. My overly long string of fittings for the air cut out worked to my advantage. The supply line would've come up short.

It was too cold this evening to get the fan to come on. I'll have to run it up some hills tomorrow after work.

20151018_230231.jpg
 

acme66

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Plains, Montana
I like the valve. 90% of the time I could run around here in MT with that just turned off. Might come in handy if the stat packs up again. I hope that will not be the case however.

Ken
 
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