About to change clutch, need some quick help

[deucedeuce]

Alright, I finally ordered a clutch kit to fix my deuce, I got the pressure plate, clutch disk, throw out bearing and pilot bearing/bushing. I would like to know what exactly I'm getting myself into first. I am planning on using a engine hoist through door to drop the transmission. Are the any special tools or tricks I need to know about before I get myself in over head? All help is appreciated!

 

[wsucougarx]

Just something else to think about. Once your tranny is dropped,it'd be a good time to replace your engines rear main seal.

 

[patracy]

Just went through this last week.

Engine hoist will work IF it extends long enough. I'd recommend using a come a long to allow for better elevation control. If the hoist won't work, use a 4x4 laid over the rear cab wall and dash. (Just open a window) I used my wrecker with the top off the truck to suspend it in the air with a come along.

The clutch lever is only a detent lock, so simply pop it off. 3/4" bolts for the jackshaft from the transmission to engine. 9/16" bolts for the bellhousing. 7/16" bolts for the floor pan. I'd recommend dropping the air pack skid plate and front driveshaft for extra working room. Also remove the jackshaft from the t-case as well for room.

You'll need a universal clutch tool or a spare input shaft to install the clutch. While you're at it, check your rear main seal and check if the transmission leaks excessively.

When reinstalling the transmission make sure you place the transmission in 1st gear before reinstalling. Otherwise the sprag link will get hung up. (Also do this when removing)

I did the entire job by myself. A word of advice, use a chain with two of the bellhousing bolts screwed into the corners of the top plate of the transmission. Then use a small ratcheting strap on the front section to allow you to angle the nose up and down. I struggled for a little while trying to get everything lined up. Then used the strap to adjust the nose and was able to pop the trans right in.

Also I've found it easiest to simply lay on your back on the ground as though you were under the t-case. Then extend your legs to the bellhousing of the trans. You can press the transmission into place pretty easy that way. (At least it's worked great the last two times I've done it)

 

[deucedeuce]

Thank you for the fast replies, where can I get the universal alignment tool at?

 

[jasonjc]

I've pull a few transmission by myself. I use 2 2X4's one on each side of the windsheid center and strap them together this way they can't move. I hang a chain hoist from a hex bar between the 2X4's, this way you can move it back and forth. For the alignment tool I just use a socket and extension and some tape, the tool is to keep the clutch plate centered so when the shaft goes thought the plate it will line up with the pliot bushing. I've tryed the eng hoist but found mine was to short plus you can lowwer it to the ground.

Now for the safty disclaimer "come-a-long's are not for over head lifting"

Good luck it's not that bad of a job.

 

[swbradley1]

We did Stretch's at Haspin in 2010. Everything has already been said but swing by Tractor Supply and pick up the small chain hoist. Safer.

 

[patracy]

I guess I should have added that disclaimer about the come along. I have one for "overhead" lifting that is in great shape. I've also got ratty ones that I wouldn't even think of using. (Rounded teeth) One that is in new shape shouldn't be any issue. But like I mentioned on install. I lay down beneath the t-case, not the transmission.

 

[PsycoBob]

I just swapped transmissions a few days ago with a very similar method. I left the top bellhousing bolts for last, just to give a little more safety factor. In the same vein, installing the 'new' transmission while sitting in the driver's seat let me use my feet to align the transmission. Much less stressful than using my arms & left both hands free for installing the bolts.

 

[General Mcgregor]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/60303-yet-another-transmission-replacement-thread.html Check this thread out, I used my Hi-lift jack with a 1 ton chain fall to drop mine. I did it across the rear of the cab and the windshield frame so I could still open both my doors. There are lots of detailed pics.

 

[crazywelder72]

so i started to drop my trans today and i got a surprise. As soon as i had the seat and tunnels removed, the flange on the output shaft was missing one bolt, and 2 more were ready to fall out. The fourth was tight. I was like WTF, this sounds familiar.

other than that the trany drop went off with out a hitch. Because m truck is so tall i was able to but a large wheelbarrow underneath to lower the trans into it

The trans was covered in about 1/2" of caked on grime oh well... Mr. Pressure washer took care of it for me .

 

[PsycoBob]

Yep- rule one on that shaft is new bolts & all-metal locknuts, either deformed or the 'spring' variety. Seems like everyone who pulls the tunnel cover sees loose jackshaft bolts. My dad & I've used new fine-thread grade-8 bolts & deformed locknuts every time touch the bolts on that shaft on any of our trucks. Never had one loosen up yet. For $8 in hardware, it's worth it for the piece of mind.