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Another Death Wobble Dilema

DerangedMadman

New member
75
0
0
Location
Columbus, OH
Now I have searched and searched the threads on death wobbles and I have taken everyones advice and I have taken my M1008 to shops that specialize in axles and frames and alignments. Here is what I have done so far...

Brand new factory springs, shackles and bushings
Brand new tie rod ends and cross link from ORD
Brand new front wheel bearings, rotors and brakes
Brand new complete king pin rebuilds from ord
Brand new universals, all 7
Brand new Bilstein shocks
Alignment
Two different sets of tires completely balanced

YET WHY CAN I NOT GET RID OF IT.

It always happens around 35 mph whether I am accelerating or even braking.

The last frame and axle place told me the only think he could think it would be is a bent spindle or axle.

I am tired of sinking money into this axle. Does anyone have a Dana 60 within 200 miles of Columbus Ohio they want to sell?
 

3dAngus

Well-known member
4,719
101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
A bent axle is always possible. I had a car that did that at 35, and 45 was the max speed due to it. It was a low sports car and not nearly the same, but... just saying...

I seemed to have solved most of this problem in my M35A3 by increasing the air in the tires, putting on extra lugs on the other side of the CTIS and just driving, driving driving to round out the tires.
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,804
61
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
Here is what I have done so far...

Brand new factory springs, shackles and bushings
Brand new tie rod ends and cross link from ORD
Brand new front wheel bearings, rotors and brakes
Brand new complete king pin rebuilds from ord
Brand new universals, all 7
Brand new Bilstein shocks
Alignment
Two different sets of tires completely balanced
l?

he has new king pin springs.
 

OL AG '89

Member
743
9
18
Location
Kingwood, Texas
Did you do the work or did you take it to a shop? or shops?
Seems like a competent shop could diagnose this without issue.
The front end is relatively simple on these things, but because it is occuring at a certain speed no matter the repair, I would consider finding another set of tires/rims and giving them a shot. Another SS member with similar tires or just another chevy with bolt pattern (6 on 5.5 I believe)
If your tires were static balanced, that may be the issue. Try to get someone to spin balance and get weights on inside/outside of rims.
 

albersondh

Member
78
3
8
Location
MI Detroit
Whats your front caster? Less than 6* has always given me DW/tracking problems. A trick that has worked for me; when you get an alignment have them check caster angle. Whlie its on the rack, take a digital (or dial) angle finder and place it on a fixed, flat axle component (C's work, or pinion snout/yoke). If you can mark that spot with a scribe, great, if not, make sure it is a spot that you can get back onto with the angle finder in the exact same position. Rack says you got 6*, angle finder says 10* (or whatever), now you got a point of reference for checking it when/if you change things in the future. Example, you add/subtract lift (or whatever), and you want to get back to the caster you liked the best, say 7*, you know that on the rack 6* was equal to 10* on your angle finder at your axle point of reference. So to get a true 7*, you want to see 11* on your angle finder, adjust as required.

Do this and set toe-in with a tape, and never pay for another allignment.

*NOTE* Sometimes "C's" are rotated a bit and caster left to right is not the same. The left side should have less (about 1/2* or so) less caster than the right. This will cause a slight pull to the side with less caster, to compensate for road crown.
 

DerangedMadman

New member
75
0
0
Location
Columbus, OH
I took it to a local shop called Beeline in Columbus that specializes in alignments and they say it is dead on. When he test drove it he said it scared him and for me to come pick it up. It literally bounces the front tire off the ground. I did complete rebuilds of the kingpins with new lower bearings, new pin and new spring and components. The tires were spin balanced at Jones Truck and Spring and balanced with solid lead weights on the outside. It is definately not the tires as I already tried another set that were working fine on another truck. I actually argued with the guy from Beeline as he said it needed a steering stablizer and I told him it was doing the exact same thing when I had a brand new factory one on. Unfortunately the ones I got from ORD do not have a mount for one so I have to fab one up still but I already know this will make absolutely no difference. The wheel is not wobbling left to right like it is in the steering. I have had my head out the window watching it when it does it and the wheel is wobbling up and down like it is compressing the kingpin spring. It is impossible for a steering stablizer to help this and I know it wont because like I said I had a new one on it.

DokWatson I am going to try the shims in above the springs and see if it makes a difference. About how many did you use or what thickness did you shim it?

I think it would be cheaper for me to find a whole new D60 than to replace the axles and spindles.
 

DokWatson

New member
359
0
0
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
DokWatson I am going to try the shims in above the springs and see if it makes a difference. About how many did you use or what thickness did you shim it?

I think it would be cheaper for me to find a whole new D60 than to replace the axles and spindles.
No, a new axle is not cheaper. Replacing shafts and spindles is easy.

I used one regular 2" wide steel washer over each spring.
 

SmokeyDod

New member
206
2
0
Location
Easley, SC
The "DW" that has been discussed on this site has been where the front tires on the Dana 60 only (not the M1009) have been moving left to right and not up & down. However, when the tires do go Left to Right your front end will most definately move up and down. I have had this on 3-4 of the D60 trucks out of 8+ that I have had. What the other guys said in ref. to replacing the kingpin spring & nylon bushing should solve your problem. The first thing I do is to replace the front steering stab. shock. Best I found for money is Advance Auto part no SC-2913 (they list 2 & this is the HD ver.) & cost is abt. $35.00. I know everyone is going to say this is temp. fix BUT with me it's worked to 2 of mine for 2+ yrs. Maybe the Kingpin spg. & bush was just beginning to wear.
But since you said you replaced these and still have problem with tires bouncing up & down, your problem sounds like it might be in leaf spgs., shocks, worn spring eye bushing, crack in frame or crack in steering box area.
Best way to see what tires are actually doing is to have someone get in front of you and look back at your tires when it does it. Mine you start when you hit certain bumps in the road almost all the time. Sure hope you get it solved & let us know what the problem & solution was.
 

DokWatson

New member
359
0
0
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
But since you said you replaced these and still have problem with tires bouncing up & down, your problem sounds like it might be in leaf spgs., shocks, worn spring eye bushing, crack in frame or crack in steering box area.
Death wobble is a problem with the axle, whether it be alignment or worn components. You can replace suspension parts all day, death wobble will still be there.

Sloppy steering and death wobble are two different things.
 
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