Are these tranny issues common?

[Knightmare]

So I've had my m1009 all of three days, and I am trying to figure out where it shifts (auto). The shifts were a little rough at first, but now they are silky smooth. So smooth, I might be in third and not know it.

That's all these trucks have is 3 gears right? No overdrive?

If I'm just motoring around town it seems to shift into 3rd at 35ish.

So when I get up to speed on some of these roads around town, I'm doing 55-60, and it sounds like I'm winding it out.

When I got home after driving around for an hour, I was concerned about the heat I had generated. Well the hood was barely warm, and the tip of the exhaust pipe didn't sizzle when I put some water on it, which both surprised me. I was a little worried that the lump between the seats which houses the tranny (I'm assuming, hey I'm new, gimmie a break) was a warm through the rubber lining they put in these things.

I should also point out I haven't had a chance yet to change all the fluids in the vehicle, so I don't know what kinda shape they are in.

Are all of these things perfectly normal, and I'm just being paranoid?

Please say yes...

 

[Knightmare]

So I'm researching my issues further, and my truck should have a th400 in it right?

So the shift points are about correct...

I didn't use the correct wording when I searched here, because I actually got linked back here from a google search.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/30885-th400-shift-speeds-i-have-momentary-wobble-goes-away.html

So I'm good right?

If someone could please verify I'm ok, it would really take a load off my mind.






Aaaaaaaaand is there somewhere I can read more on how to fix this problem? I'm not a mechanically inclined person, but I'd love to learn. We all have start somewhere, and I'd love to start on my m1009!

 

[M813rc]

Welcome aboard Knightmare.

Your truck sounds like it is doing what it should. Third at 35 is actually low compared to most, both mine wait until around 45 to go into 3rd.

There is a FAQ thread in the CUCV section, and posts on just about any aspect of 1009s and the other CUCVs, and the answers to most any question you could possibly imagine, so start reading there. You will be entertained for days (or longer) and be well educated when you get through!

Cheers

 

[Shop Rat Fab]

Welcome Knightmare:
Mine goes into 3rd at around 35 just motoring around town on moderate accel. My up shifts are firm but I like them that way you do not feel the down shifts unless you force one on accel, soft shifts are okay as long as the trans does not appear to be slipping burnt fluid should tell you that.

"And I have this momentary wobble that goes away..." If the "wobble" is felt in the seat or through the body and it's on accel from a stop it could be a u-joint going or drivline angle concern. Mine has a slight wobble/vibration on accel from a stop once going its fine but I know I need rear u-joint as it was dry when I got the truck and it has a few bad spots in the needle bearing surface. If the "wobble" is the steering wheel going back and forth I would look at tires or locked hub.

 

[Knightmare]

I appreciate the input guys, after reading your posts, I wasn't scared driving around town, fearing that I had screwed up my new toy!!

But on the way home from work, the truck died on me in a parking lot. A random good samaritian helped me out, he suggested I leave the glow plugs on for a while. My connections might be messed up, the plugs themselves, etc. He knew what he was talking about, and he got me home after all.

But on the way, I hear a fairly strong "ping" and it sounded like it came from right beside me, the tranny "hump." After that, (this is only a 5 mile limp home) I notice what seems to be extra cabin heat coming from the tranny area.

Aaand I would have random surges of power, while my foot was steady on the accelerator.

When I got home, and let it idle for just a sec, it was super rough.

Any ideas?

Right now I think the truck is ****ed.

It's probably worth fixing, I only paid $3500, and that's more than the miles showing on it, but not by much. It's not too rusty either, and I like it, but I don't want to sink another $2000 into it, just to get it to run right.

I thought I was lost before, now I'm in NeverNeverland.

 

[acmunro]

I would remove the Injector pump return check valve and see if there are any air bubbles getting into your fuel system. You shouldn't have any bubbles. There is a condition also where the check valve will clog that usually means the IP is going bad. I hope its just a bad fuel line letting air in for ya. The injector pump is behind the engine oil filler. The check valve is on the top of the pump facing forward with a rubber hose attached. Remove the hose and the fitting is a 13 or 14 MM. Remove the fitting from the top of the pump. Grab a fire extinguisher (just in case). When you remove the fitting start the engine (a little fuel will come from the fitting) that where you would look for air. It would be best to have someone assist you because it will be leaking fuel. This test should only take a few minutes. While the check valve is out I would spray some carb cleaner in it and work the glass check ball (I usually do it with the spray tube while flushing the valve with cleaner) Good luck.

 

[seabee mike]

Did you ever fix it?