Axle wrap with a bobbed deuce?

[ivbeenrokd]

I backed into a friends driveway this morning and he said I had a pretty extreme amount of axle wrap when getting it going. I wasn't getting on the throttle very hard at all, actually I was trying to move as slow as possible. Has anyone with a bobbed deuce had this issue? I'm running deuce front springs in the rear and 1400 tires.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Making a set of traction bars out of some 1 1/2" Dom tubing and hiem joints should be pretty simple. I plan on doing it myself and putting pins in so I can pull them in and out quickly for off-roading. I'm going to find out really quick of the truck is going to hop or not with m105 springs when I do truck pulls.

 

[M-1028]

Torque the u bolts and then see. Mine has some, but nothing too major. I'm on 1600's too.

 

[mudguppy]

i'm trying to reply and post a pic of my traction bars. the attachment window has crashed my browser 3 times in a row. It'd be great if this site had modern forum reliability like everywhere else on the 'net...

i was trying to say my traction bars are great and blah blah blah. so tired of working so hard to perform basic communication on this junk.

 

[mudguppy]

... and putting pins in so I can pull them in and out quickly for off-roading. ...

I think you'll find that pulling them off won't help off-road, they shouldn't hinder anything. Actually, they will help keep hop away.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Yes BUT they have to be built right to keep full articulation with out binding. Your bars look good but the type of joint can limit travel. I was going to use a misalignment heim or a Johnny joint. Or your could run regular heims with out using a jam nut so the heim can thread in and out of the tubing but won't let the axle wrap

 

[mudguppy]

just remember that the rear axle of a bob'er isn't going to articulate like a rock crawler and not even as much as the stock dual rear setup...

A rear wheel will lift before the springs max which is well before the joints bind.

 

[jesusgatos]

Making a set of traction bars out of some 1 1/2" Dom tubing and hiem joints should be pretty simple. I plan on doing it myself and putting pins in so I can pull them in and out quickly for off-roading.

If you design/build them right, you won't ever want to remove them. Sure, traction-bars like mudguppy's are going to bind, but there are several ways to build traction-bars that won't. You really only need one, ideally located towards the center of the axle. Build something more like a ladderbar, triangulated, with a second attachment point, higher on the axlehousing. Then, mount the chassis-end on some kind of shackle or incorporate some kind of telescoping feature in order to allow the link to move forwad/back as the leafsprings cycle. Not sure how much more effective that would be than a single-link traction bar like mudguppy's, given the limitations of the stock leafsprings as mudguppy has already pointed out, but it would be a better way to do it... and better is better, right?

 

[ivbeenrokd]

Thanks for the replies. So it appears this is a typical issue then. Most of the offroad rigs I've seen with traction bars use a single attachment point on the frame with a shackle and 2 attachment points on the axle to leverage it. I think this type of design shouldn't limit any travel and would work well. Any additional thoughts on that?

 

[walkerhunter]

Mine is on 1100s and trust me I have put it in a strain Several times... very little wrap

 

[Floridianson]

I allways used Deuce front set up and very little wrap also.

 

[Toploader]

Thanks for the replies. So it appears this is a typical issue then. Most of the offroad rigs I've seen with traction bars use a single attachment point on the frame with a shackle and 2 attachment points on the axle to leverage it. I think this type of design shouldn't limit any travel and would work well. Any additional thoughts on that?

This^^^
When doing the shackle mount at the frame, the traction bar should mount to the top of the shackle. As the axle torques, it wants to rotate the pinion/driveshaft upward. You can run bushings at the axle end and frame side of the shackle, and run a single rod end on the traction bar. This will give the axle room to articulate. Try to follow the same angle as your drive line and run the lower bar as far up to the frame rod end as possible. Center of axle housing or flush with the bottom for the lower axle tabs, and pinion height or taller if possible at the upper mount. They wrap alot more than a standard axle with the double reduction and adding taller tires increases the leverage so the farther apart your upper and lower bars are separated the better.

 

[jesusgatos]

Thanks for the replies. So it appears this is a typical issue then. Most of the offroad rigs I've seen with traction bars use a single attachment point on the frame with a shackle and 2 attachment points on the axle to leverage it. I think this type of design shouldn't limit any travel and would work well. Any additional thoughts on that?

Yup, that's a good way to do it. All comes down to execution though. Geometry. Specifically, the length/angle of the traction bar, as where the front is attached to the chassis is really important. Want to make sure that the arc the traction bar swings in complements the geometry of the suspension as it cycles. Providing for articulation somehow is another important point, but I'm sure you know that.

 

[jw4x4]

With the tall height of those lift blocks, it would stand to reason that it's putting a whole lot more leverage on the springs. That may have something to do with it. I have not experienced this condition, just my observation and thoughts.

 

[ivbeenrokd]

Horrible picture but here's my rear suspension.

I don't have lift blocks....

 

[ivbeenrokd]

I was thinking something like one of these:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/AWKIT.html

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Traction-Bar-Kit_p_1822.html

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/1366/BTF-Traction-Link-Kit-with-Bushings.aspx

 

[blackrock]

im bobbing a 900 series 5 ton right now and am adding traction bars. If you guys have ideas and measurements i can cut something custom out for ya. Im using 2 1/2" od x .250wall DOM tube and 1"x1.25" heims. (what we use on the monster truck upper bars) on this cusomters truck. but for 2.5tons i would run 2" x .25 wall dom.

 

[jesusgatos]

I was thinking something like one of these:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/AWKIT.html

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Traction-Bar-Kit_p_1822.html

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/1366/BTF-Traction-Link-Kit-with-Bushings.aspx

Yup, that's the idea. Lots of companies make kits, but there's really not much to it. WFO Concepts is worth checking out. Would highly recommend staying away from Ballistic Fabrication though. Horrible company.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

I never had a problem with ballistic fabrication

 

[ivbeenrokd]

Are you saying you would provide a complete kit or just the DOM?

im bobbing a 900 series 5 ton right now and am adding traction bars. If you guys have ideas and measurements i can cut something custom out for ya. Im using 2 1/2" od x .250wall DOM tube and 1"x1.25" heims. (what we use on the monster truck upper bars) on this cusomters truck. but for 2.5tons i would run 2" x .25 wall dom.