Battery Load Controller, can it be bypassed?

[Kambaku]

A close friends Battery Load Controller went out on his 2008 1078A1 and it was replaced. At the time that it was acting up there was an intermittent "no charge" light going on and off. I think its purpose is to protect the batteries from over and under voltage.

It is my understanding that once the battery load controller senses the charging condition it opens up the 12 and 24v relay that's in the box where the battery disconnect is. Unfortunately, once again his no charge light is intermittently acting up and if this turns out to be another bad load controller, we are wondering if one could permanently jump the relays.

Unfortunately, this is not an area of my expertise, so I am reaching out to this great community to see if anyone has any insight into this device or a possible solution.

Thanks,

 

[Suprman]

I have found the 24 volt wires to the alternator regulator become intermittent or go bad. If this is the case it will confuse the fancy charging system. Does your voltage gage go up and down? Dummy volt light come on dash? I have seen the A1 polarity protective box used in a first gen truck with nothing connected to the side plug. I had though the main disconnect was controlled by the shut off switch next to the diag connector left side unde the drivers dash. The cure for alt regulator wire is connecting to the fuel solenoid positive and going to the regulator 24v connection. The second terminal on the regulator is marked AC. It is an alternating current output not a regulation lead. Can be used to drive small accessories or a tach. I believe it is used on the A1 trucks with data bus and advanced polarity protection box.

 

[Suprman]

 

[Kambaku]

Thanks for the quick response. We will check out some of what you mentioned and report back. I too think that there is something amiss with the wiring or...It's hard for me to believe that we have two bad load controllers.

 

[Kambaku]

Perfect, diagram most helpful...

 

[Suprman]

I know someone else with intermittent no charge issues on a late model A1. I would at least temporarily run a replacement regulator lead. See what happens. In theory you could set the truck up like a first gen with no charge relays. Don't know if the data bus would know and error somewhere though.

 

[Kambaku]

Interesting thought. Every vehicle I've ever owned that was more simple in design was a lot easier to diagnose and maintain. The more sophisticated the electronic systems the more susceptible they are to error. We will check out your suggestions...

 

[Suprman]

Lots of bad connections on these trucks due to non mil spec connectors and low quality electrical parts. They throw all that money at a cat engine, allison trans and axletech axles and then cheap out on the little stuff that brings it all together. The small relays go bad over time. 2008 sounds new but it's 9 years old. I would be curious to open one of those relay boxes and see how the contacts are connected. The A1s with circuit board style power panel can have bad solder joints seen that first hand.

 

[mechanicjim]

Niehoff has a trouble shooting guide for the LBCD N2003 on there site under Service and Support. its trouble shooting guide LBCD Static/Dynamic TG53B might help check out the ones suspected of failing.

Have a Great Day.

 

[dronsen]

mechanicjim-

Can you please provide link to troubleshooting guide? Thanks!

 

[firefinder]

I believe this is the link to the troubleshooting guide:

http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG53B_uid1252012258102.pdf

The staff at C E Niehoff is very helpful and there is a wealth of information on their website.

Stay safe and stay in touch,

firefinder

 

[Kambaku]

We're keeping our fingers crossed that we may have located the problem which we think is in the voltage regulator that sits on top of the big Alternator which is Niehoff 28V/260 A + 14V 140A. (Product Code for the alternator should be Niehoff’s N1224-1, NSN 2920015592715 Part number 19207SOCN12423716). Apparently, the manufacture, Niehoff is back ordered on them and may take 6 weeks. Niehoff's part number for the regulator is 76761-N3221. A used one we know works would be a good place for us to confirm our suspicions anyway if someone has something like this sitting around.

 

[mechanicjim]

on the C.E.Niehoff website they have a trouble shooting guide for the N1224 under N1224 Quick Troubleshooting Sheet TG0058A
N1224 Standard TG TG0045A
Links below
http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0058A_uid12172009145202.pdf
http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0045A_uid12172009146362.pdf
listed in the trouble shooting guide are the Regulator numbers applicable to the unit

Have a great day

 

[mechanicjim]

on the C.E.Niehoff website they have a trouble shooting guide for the N1224 under N1224 Quick Troubleshooting Sheet TG0058A
N1224 Standard TG TG0045A
the pages are below if I make them links it holds for moderator approval so just copy paste
http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0058A_uid12172009145202.pdf
http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0045A_uid12172009146362.pdf
listed in the trouble shooting guide are the Regulator numbers applicable to the unit

Have a great day

 

[mechanicjim]

hey Kambaku,

on the C.E.Niehoff site they have trouble shooting guides for the N1224
N1224 Quick Troubleshooting Sheet TG0058A
N1224 Standard TG TG0045A

In the trouble shooting guide they have the part Numbers for the Regulator

I cannot post links as it blocks my post and says it is hidden till moderator approval
Have a great Day

 

[Suprman]

Did you try running a new 24v regulation lead?

 

[bajaharley]

Suprman, I didn't try running a new wire because I was a little unsure of one detail. I did a search in the manuals I have but could find no reference to anything described as a fuel solenoid. It's probably obvious to many but as I am not the best mechanic in the world, I'm not sure where that solenoid is located. I did use the troubleshooting guide to help me find out I have an issue with the regulator. Reading between pins A and D on the multi pin plug on the regulator, it shows I have an open in the circuit. As per the guide , the next step is to replace the Transformer.... which I have ordered today. I am thinking I should probably go ahead and run that extra wire as you described to prevent problems in the future. Thanks again for the help.

 

[bajaharley]

1

 

[engele]

Hi,
i have an issue with my A1 too. I changed the alternator but they didn´t work. I used the troubleshooting and jumped 24V to regulator E and the alternator works with 28,2 Volt. I have no input on E and i think E comes from the Bat. Load controller N2003.
Tomorrow i will check the Bat. Load control device by the troubleshooting, it´s very helpful.
http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0014D_uid12172009224052.pdf

Best regards
Alex

 

[Suprman]

Come off the fuel solenoid 24 volt and come around the front of the engine to the regulator 24v post. Remove and tape up the original regulator wire.