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BEST ENGINE FOR THE Deuce

acetomatoco

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The OH331 Reo gasser installed in 1950 is the quietest, most reliable, lowest cost to run of the Deuce engines.. The LD-465-1A would be my next choice... also quiet and reliable with a muffler and no turbo to worry you....
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,330
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48
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North Georgia
Of the engines you are likely to see.....

I would shoot for the
LDT465 C (assuming you have already lost, or do not need your ability to hear)

or

LDT465 D (basicly the same w/o the shriek)
 

BKubu

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I will add that I've had two C motors with blown head gaskets. I know they redesigned the head gasket, among other things, on the D motor. I'd suggest going with a D motor with the C turbo since I, too, like the whistle. It is definitely possible that a C motor has already been upgraded by the military with the D head gasket kit, but I don't know of any way to tell without taking the motor apart. With all this said, one of my three deuces has a C in it. I would not hesitate to buy a truck with either. To me, how it runs is more important than the letter on the data tag.
 

Maroman

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Newest gasket has no tab that sticks out from the head like in the pic below. The new gasket has no tab lik ein the second pic. Tab = BAD. They have seperate fire rings which is bad too. Ask me how I know.



 

DDoyle

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acetomatoco said:
The OH331 Reo gasser installed in 1950 is the quietest, most reliable, lowest cost to run of the Deuce engines.. The LD-465-1A would be my next choice... also quiet and reliable with a muffler and no turbo to worry you....
Yep
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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Yup, the original, multi piece haedgasket is junk and designed to fail...no grommets at the oil and coolant passages. As for the power pant, I'd like to think...as stated before a very long thread a few days ago..a Cummins K model..1150 cubic inches of raw HP...I forget how to power the front axle, but with the amount of HP and wheel spin you'll have, who needs a front axle that drives!!!!! :wink: Seriously, the LDT is a robust engine. Stay with that, a C or a D, depending if you like noise or not.
 

houdel

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BFR said:
LDT465 C (assuming you have already lost, or do not need your ability to hear) or LDT465 D (basically the same w/o the shriek)
Sorry Joel but that is incorrect. The -1C or -1D suffix following the LDT465 has NOTHING to do with the turbo. The -1C or -1D (or -2 in the case of Bjorns XM-757) refers to the engineering change level of the engine; i.e. the level of change/upgrades made to the engine when it was originally built. The "C" or "D" turbo refers to the version of the turbo but the turbo version is not tied to the engine version.

Either turbo could be installed on either engine depending on what was on hand when the engine was built, rebuilt or turbo replaced. I have a LDT465-1D with a "C" turbo, I'm sure many others have LDT465-1C engines with "D" turbos.
 

Desert Deuce

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Lee is correct. And to add to his explanation, the pump timing is adjusted different between the 1C and the 1D. If you look at the harmonic balancer of a LD/LDT-465 you will see 4 timimg marks. 1A, 1C, 1D & LDS465-1A. This is from memory so..., marks may be slightly different. I'll look at my spare engine tomorrow. My Spare is a "low hours" un-rebuilt Hurcules LD-465-1C with "D" Turbo. (Pictures below)

The "1D" engine when timed as a "1D" will make more HP than a "1C" timed as a "1C". I believe you can time a "1C" as a "1D" and it should then perform as a "1D". I am yet to test this. If anyone out there has the definitive answer, please chime in. Otherwise I will be testing this theory in the next month on my White LDT-465-1C (this enigine also has a "D" turbo).

I also have a Continental LDT-465-1D (with "D" turbo) in one of my trucks and it makes quite abit more HP than my 2 1C's (1 with "C" turbo & 1 with"D" turbo)

:? it's too late for all these C's & D's
 

Attachments

BKubu

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Maroman: Thanks for the explanation. I did not know there was a way to determine if your truck had the C or D head gaskets. I will be checking this evening. Thanks for the info!
 

acetomatoco

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On the OH331, you change the timing with one wrench, and one eye... fuel mixture wth one screwdriver, no intank pump at $250, no anti gel sauce or winter woes with french fry oil, no headmuffs, and spark plugs are $1 ea, ah......the peace and quiet of it all...I have had over 100 Deuces and standing beside a idling OH331 (300 rpm) you sometimes question whether or not it is running....never have that problem with a MF.
 

Recovry4x4

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What year did the gaskets change? I have a brand new complete gasket set dated 1991.
 

Westech

CPL
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cow farts, Wisconsin
well Kenny if they have the red sealer around the holes and such there new, but I think by 1991 your way safe to say there the new kind.

Now I have been hearing all this about the gasser being the "best" Deuce power plant. I do say its not loud at all, has ok power (little on the low side) the 400 cid gasser is a lot better power wise then the 331 but to a multi its still under powered.
I love my Multi and with it turned up a bit I can tow my M1008 and still do 65 MPH. I dont know where some one said its cheaper to run the gasser.... that gasser will NEVER EVER EVER get the MPG's as a good running Multi will. If you have good clean running Multi, it should get around 10 MPG at least! Try that with a gasser and let me know how it gong for you.
Now if the Multi is a tad loud well I understand that, there are pros and cons to each power plant. But for power, fuel consumption, cost to run (if its a good engine) I would go with the Multi all day every day.
 

Maroman

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It is my opinion that that tab gasket is bad because there is not much sealing surface between the coolant passages and the outside world. Look at the first photo and see the coolant that leaked from the stud and the coolant hole over to the fire ring (not present). When I got this truck it was just leaking coolant out under gravity. The new gasket is the next photo. It is modern in construction. Personally I like the multi for an engine as it captures the essence of a deuce. That means it has to stink and be noisy.
 
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